Friday 9 October 2009

IS THIS THE PLAINEST SKIRT YOU'VE EVER SEEN?

I know you're going to look at this picture of my new skirt and think "wow! ..... that's dull" but stick with me because there's some interesting stuff going on inside.

This skirt is made from Simplicity 2564

so I could have chosen to add pockets, trims, belt loops etc. but I decided I really needed a very plain skirt - I wanted it to look good with my new top (Simplicity 2501), featured in my last post, but I also wanted to be able to wear it with lots of other things. Sometimes you just have to bite the boring bullet and make a wardrobe workhorse.

It's made from a grey medium-weight denim, so it should be sturdy and can be dressed up or down to be casual or smart. Size 12 fitted straight out of the envelope but to be really perfectionist I made a small swayback adjustment. I made the following changes from the pattern instructions - I used an invisible zipper and I mitred the corner of the left back vent, which looks much neater that just folding it over. Also, I lined the skirt, putting a lace trim on the lining hem.

Above is a picture of the inside of the vent and you may be thinking "what's gone wrong there, why is there is a fold above where the vent is secured to the skirt?" But the reason for this is 'lengthwise ease'. When cutting the lining out I referred to my oracle - Connie Long's Easy Guide to Sewing Linings - and what Connie says is "Whenever you connect the lining to the outside vent, lengthwise ease is important to keep the lining from distorting the outer seam". So, as per her instructions, this is how I drafted the lining pattern -

The green line is the cutting line for the outer fabric and the red line is the cutting line for the lining. As you can see, the lining is cut a half inch lower from the pivot point to the hem line at the centre back, blending upwards to the original hemline at the side seam (note that for this pattern I have allowed 1 1/4" for the skirt hem and 5/8" for the lining hem and the lining is 3/4" shorter than the skirt). When sewing the lining to the skirt you match up the pivot points so that the lining hem is raised up and becomes level and a fold forms above the vent. So it looks a bit wonky inside but I think that it does actually work to make the outside look better and doesn't strain or pull the seam when moving, sitting etc.


Incidentally I initially found it a real headache to work out how the lining vent was attached and which side needed to be cut off and where until I looked at Jackets for Real People by Alto, Neall and Palmer. Even though their explanation was for a jacket vent it's the same for a skirt vent and I found their illustrations really easy to understand.


Next time I make this skirt I think I'll go crazy and add some pockets!


11 comments:

  1. I think a plain skirt is perfect to be able to go with several things. You did a very nice job. I really like the lace trim on the lining.

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  2. Plain skirt? I think it's sleek and fine! Thank you for the cool details and information. Also endless thanks for posting such sweet comments on my blog. You inspire me a lot with your kindness, support and your wonderful creations. BTW I like how your new skirt showcases your lovely legs!

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  3. Not boring at all. Your post is very helpful. I need to learn more about lining. I make things up as I go when attaching!

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  4. Read my lips...plain is good. It means you can wear it with lots of colours and it coordinates with everything. My 'plain is good' black skirt has been worn so much I need to make another.

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  5. I agree - sometimes you just need a basic skirt. Yesterday I wore the high-waist pencil skirt I made a few weeks ago, and was actually wishing that I would have left the buttoned tabs off. You'll get so much wear out of your skirt - a plain ("streamlined"? that sounds nicer than plain!) denim skirt is a definite wardrobe staple. Thanks for the helpful post!

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  6. It is a nice skirt and basic skirts are a must so you can wear pretty blouses and tops with them!

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  7. I love the lace trim you added to the lining! But then again you know I love that particular embellishment alot! And if you are going to make your entire wardrobe, you will end up making a lot of plain! Because something has to match with all the spectacular...very nice job!

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  8. I love plain skirts because you can wear them over and over again with all sorts of different tops!! They are awesome!! Yours looks great!

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  9. I really like the contrast of the tailored skirt with the feminine blouse - very stylish!
    You have inspired me to think about making some skirts - I have lived in trousers for way too long!

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  10. Your skirt fits you perfect.. it will definitely be a great wardrobe addition.

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  11. I think the skirt doesn't look dull at all. In fact, I think it looks very classy and stylish. Nice!

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