Sunday 28 August 2011

How I get an invisible zipper looking neat at the top!

I know I have mentioned this before, but I hate hooks and eyes. They are pesky little things to be avoided at (almost) all costs. Usually I just leave them off and nothing terrible happens - my garments don't inconveniently unzip themselves! However, doing this does mean that you can sometimes get a little (or large!) ‘V’ shape at the top of the zipper where the opening doesn't quite close. In a tireless quest for perfection I have been working on ways to avoid this.

You might remember that the last dress I made (featured in my last post) has a low back neckline so the zipper closing is very visible. But, if I say so myself, I think I was quite successful in getting it to look acceptable without having to resort to a hook and eye.

Close-up of back zipper

As it is a rainy bank holiday Sunday and I am nursing a miserable cold I thought I would occupy myself by sharing my secret technique with you. Firstly, however, a warning! I have never seen it done this way in a book so it is probably VERY WRONG. If you want to do things properly, maybe you shouldn't try this.

As I didn't take photos when I made my dress, I have made, from scrap fabrics, a mock-up of one side of a back bodice to illustrate what I am talking about.

At the back of the zipper, with the zipper closed, put a chalk mark on the zipper tape where the top of the slider finishes.


Open the zipper and pin it to the right side of the back bodice, in the usual way, so that the zipper teeth are along the centre back seam line and the chalk mark you have made is just below the seam line of the neckline. How much below depends on the thickness of the fabric - if it is thin 1/8" will be ok, thicker fabric needs about 1/4" - you are allowing for the turn of the fabric.

If you are making a dress with an edge to edge lining that has already been attached it will be placed below the already sewn neckline seam that joins the bodice and the lining. If you are going to be attaching a facing after inserting the zipper it will look like this photo, (I have chalk marked the seam-line for the purposes of clarity - I wouldn't normally do this.)

Start sewing from chalk mark on zipper tape
Sew the zipper in the usual way, with an invisible zipper foot, But DON'T start sewing from the top of the zipper tape (which is how books usually demonstrate it is done). Instead you should start sewing from the chalk mark down to the end (I use the lockstitch on my machine at the start point). Do the same on both sides.

The top of the zipper tape, above the slider, will be loose. Then, if you are attaching a facing, you should pull the tape out of the way and sew the facing to the bodice WITHOUT sandwiching the zipper i.e. like this (pretend the yellow fabric is the facing)

DO sew zipper like this
and NOT like this.

DON'T sew zipper like this

Leaving the top of the zipper tape free means that when you close the zipper and sew the lining or facing to the zipper you can pull the bits of the zipper tape that are above the slider well inside the garment and out of the way. I find that this way it is easier to get it looking neat, it helps avoid nasty lumps and you can get much less of a ‘V’ at the top of the opening.

After much experimentation this is my preferred (if unorthodox!) way of dealing with invisible zippers. It works for me on skirts as well as dresses. I hope that you find it helpful to see how I do it.

Do you have a tried and tested way of getting invisible zippers to look how you want or do you struggle with them? I'd love to know .......

237 comments:

  1. Great tip! Your zipper looks fabulous so I'll have to try it.

    ReplyDelete
  2. Thank you so much for this, Eugenia! Invisible zips are one of my weak areas, so all help greatly appreciated. The back detail of your dress looks immaculate.

    ReplyDelete
  3. Fantastic tip.... Thanks for sharing... I don't like hooks & eye too... irritates my skin!

    ReplyDelete
  4. I share your sentiments about hooks and eyes, and try to avoid using them when I can as well. Thanks for this great tip. I will try it in my next garment with an invisible zip. You've explained it very well!

    ReplyDelete
  5. Thanks for the great tips ! As a new sewer I still have LOTS of troubles with zips !! Your post will help me lots and lots. As Mushywear said - you have explained this very well. Thanks !! K xx

    ReplyDelete
  6. Ooooooh how timely! Well. No. Not really. A week too late lol. I was sewing a late-night-deadline side zip last week, and this was exactly the info I was missing - thank you so much! (for the next time.....)

    ReplyDelete
  7. I hate hook and eyes too! Horrible! I usually cut the top of the zipper tape off to the zipper stop, line it up with the seam of the fabric and the facing, then sew it between the fabric back and the facing down the zipper tape. I don't know if that makes sense but it works!

    ReplyDelete
  8. Your dress came out so perfect with the back zip! And your timing is right on for me -- made a wearable muslin and the back zip is all kinds of crazy. Was thinking I need a new way to put in invisible zips so I will try your method. Thank you!

    ReplyDelete
  9. I ALWAYS appreciate any zipper tips so thanks I will be trying this for sure, you are great, thanks again.

    ReplyDelete
  10. I hate hooks and eyes too! I usually sew mine all the way up to the top but not like what you've shown here...I'm going to give it a try!! Thanks for the great tip!!

    ReplyDelete
  11. I never use hooks and eyes. But the top of my zippers never look as neat as yours! I'll have to try this out.

    ReplyDelete
  12. I often struggle with zips, so this is very useful. Thanks Eugenia.

    ReplyDelete
  13. I often struggle with invisible zippers. I'm about to insert one in a side seam which opens from the bottom. Your method sounds great so I'm going to try it 'cos I want a neat finish. Thanks for sharing!

    ReplyDelete
  14. Thank you for sharing your method!
    I am not that experienced in sewing and still have been struggling with invisible zippers. My last project (salad dress) was the most successful in stitching in the invisible zipper though I am still not happy with the top of it. Need to practice it more.
    Your finishing looks perfect!

    ReplyDelete
  15. I too hate hooks and eyes and almost never use them. I'm happy to see I'm not the only one who "breaks the rules". Lol!

    ReplyDelete
  16. I am going to give this a try. Also, your matching points at the midriff look perfect too.

    ReplyDelete
  17. I prefer this method too. I first saw it in a Burda envelope pattern so you're not weird at all and even if it wasn't printed anywhere, someone has to be first especially if it works and it does.

    ReplyDelete
  18. Thank you, thank you, thank you for this post. I have another dress in que that I'll be making for my mom and I'm quite excited to try this this technique. I can only hope my invisible zipper comes up as perfect as yours. Now "lockstitch" what's a lockstitch and does my Janome have it? Get well soon.

    ReplyDelete
  19. Thanks for this tip Eugenia! I sewed my last invisible zipper this way, but I sewed the zipper tape into the facing and had so much trouble with it!! Now I know what NOT to do. I haven't worked with hooks and eyes at all. I will try it one day I am sure, but I have heard that are a lot of fuss, so I try to sidestep them as well.

    ReplyDelete
  20. Eugenia I do my zips like this too, but still get a small gape at the top - perhaps you can extend your tutorial to the folding in section (rather than stopping at the facing bit) as perhaps this is where I go slightly wrong... Thanks anyhow, glad to know others use this method.

    ReplyDelete
  21. Hi Graca - my machine (which is a Janome 6600P) has an Auto-Lock button - I press it at the beginning and end of a seam and it sews several stitches in the same place so that the stitches are automatically secured. I'm not sure if all Janome machines have this knob?

    Hi Sewing MrsC - I'm not sure that I have any special technique for the folding part - I just make sure, as best I can, that the top of the zipper slider is level with the top of the neckline and that there is as little bulk as possible in this area to avoid getting a lumpy look - keeping the zipper tape free is helpful here because you can adjust where you want it to go more easily and it gives you more flexibility on exactly where you fold the fabric. Depending on the type of fabric I think that sometimes you just have to live with a little bit of gape - but I doubt very much if anyone else would notice it!

    Thanks for stopping by!

    ReplyDelete
  22. Thanks Eugenia~! What a brilliant little tutorial! So simple, but I can see that it will make a world of difference.

    ReplyDelete
  23. Great tutorial. I would never have thought of setting the zipper lower than the seam line. Genius!

    ReplyDelete
  24. Interesting alternative to hooks and closures! i will surely try this out! Sometimes simple measures is what is required isn't it! Great thinking on your part. Thanks for sharing.

    Thanks for your compliments for my guest post at Frabjous Couture.

    I have a month long celebration of skirts in September called Sew Skirt September, where starting from basic skirt draft, we shall delve deeper into making of skirts, different styles, what suits whom and so on and so forth, please do join in!

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    Adithi's Amma AKA Lakshmi from Adithis Amma Sews

    ReplyDelete
  25. I HATE hooks and eyes , I never sew them exactly the right distance and they never look right. I will be copying this for sure next time around:-)

    ReplyDelete
  26. I do mine a bit like that too, but I trap the end of my zipper in with the facing, then fold the facing over to the reverse and make a kind of inverted V shape with the raw facing edges, so it doesn't get trapped in the zipper. I then catch this down to the zipper tape with some small hand stitches - then the facing doesn't flap about either. Completely unorthodox but it works for me - I hate hooks and eyes too!

    ReplyDelete
  27. I join the mainstream, also hate hooks ... great method!
    I also published a tutorial to avoid this here:
    http://sewingadicta.blogspot.com/2011/07/make-inner-facing-of-dress-tutorial-iii.html

    ReplyDelete
  28. Fabulous idea! I will definitely give this a try on my next zipper!

    ReplyDelete
  29. Thank you again Eugenia - I am in a zipper wasteland. . .

    ReplyDelete
  30. Interesting--I always catch in the zipper tape and sometimes get the ugly V at the top. I'm going to have to experiment with not catching the zip tape.

    ReplyDelete
  31. Thanks you for a great tutorial.
    I've published a link to this on the sewing tutorials site: http://sewingtutorials.blogspot.com/.
    Hope that's ok with you.

    ReplyDelete
  32. Oooh I love the neat finish !! Of course, I managed to find out your tutorial after having inserted my invisible zipper, and I end up with a beautiful "V"... but I will surely give a try to your method next time. thanks for sharing.

    ReplyDelete
  33. Thank you! Mother of bride dress was finished, all but the "hook and eye". 4 attempts were useless. In desperation went to your site -- unpicked the facing at zipper area, clipped the extra zipper tape and sewed up -- lovely finish, and no need for that silly "hook and eye".

    ReplyDelete
  34. Eugenia - the dress fabric is too die for - looks like a gorgeous vintage print. Well done!!!!

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