Friday, 19 November 2010

Vogue classic pencil skirt finished!

Regular readers will know that my recent sewing activities have been aimed at building some winter wardrobe basics. So I had to make that classic essential - a black pencil skirt.

The pattern I picked out was Vogue 8603 (in case you are wondering, I am wearing it with the silk jersey top I made from Jalie 2806 blogged about in my last post). Here’s what the skirt pattern looks like

What this picture doesn’t show you, however, is the back view. The pattern gives the option of a gathered inset in the lower back. So, although my version looks pretty plain from the front, the back looks like this.

I do like a skirt that has a bit of back interest!

The lining is cut so that it is hand-stitched around the edge of the gathered insert, like this

The skirt is fairly simple to make and, as it has princess seams, it is not difficult to get a good fit. Next time I make this pattern I think I'm going to try the view with the gathers at the hips - I avoided this because I thought that extra fabric around this area might be unflattering but now I've made this skirt, I think that the side gathers would work.

One thing did puzzle me about this pattern, however, is the way Vogue tells you to do the waistband facing. Once you have constructed the skirt and the lining separately they tell you to pin the lining to the skirt wrong sides together and baste along the upper edges. Then they tell you to sew the facing right sides together with the skirt, then turn the facing to the inside and slipstitch to the zipper tape and tack at the seams. This means that the facing is only attached at the seams and is kind of loose inside. I’m not very experienced so perhaps their way is a good way? But I didn’t fancy it much.

Instead I decided to do away with the facings (as you can see in the photo above of inside the skirt). To be sure that the waist seam didn’t stretch out I sewed 1/4” seam tape to the inside of the skirt (along the seam line) before attaching the lining. I think that if you aren’t going to add facings this is an essential step to give the waist some stability. Then I just sewed the lining and skirt together along the top, right sides together, understitched the seam and flipped the lining to the inside.

I quite like having the skirt without facings – I think it gives a smooth line. I should mention that even if I had decided on keeping the facings, I still wouldn’t have done it the way that Vogue suggests. I would have sewn the facings to the lining to make one lining/facing unit and then sewn this to the skirt with the right sides together, along the waist seam. But that’s just me – you might like the way that Vogue advise doing it? Do you have particular feelings about facings?

Moving on, I’m feeling that I need a change from sewing separates so I’m planning on making a dress next - more on that soon …….

30 comments:

  1. It's lovely Eugenia, classic but with a little twist. The fit looks good too. I don't have much opinion yet on facings...I think I need more experience. A holiday dress sounds like an appealing thing to make right about now. Sadly, I have to clean up the dining room (where I sew) for company now. And once they leave, there won't be much time for more than a few Xmas crafty type items with the kids.

    See you tomorrow!

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  2. Lovely skirt, I hadn't noticed the back options. I've come upon that weird "hanging" facing construction when I was making a Burda skirt last year (blogged here: http://lin3arossa.wordpress.com/2010/01/26/striped-high-waisted-skirt/). I still have no idea what the purpose is vs. the usual facing construction, sadly...

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  3. I'm loving it too Eugenua . A classic skirt with a twist. I love the colour of your Silk Jalie top very pretty .

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  4. Such a lovely skirt! It's so funny I just made a post about lacking my winter wardrobe essentials and a black skirt was definitely on the list. Thanks for such a great review. You always know how to put a fancy twist on the basics:)

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  5. I must say you are doing a great job with building the wardrobe with classic staples. The Jalie tops and this pencil skirt are great pieces to freshen up the wardrobe.

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  6. Lovely!! I'm bumping this one up on my must-sew list!! I agree with you completely on the facings, though. I generally line to the edge and either tape the waist as you did, or fuse interfacing to the lining using the facing pattern pieces.

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  7. Wow. That fits you perfectly. And the back detailing is fabulous. What a great garment. You'll get so much wear from this and it'll go with so many things!

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  8. I looove this combination!! the top is to die for and the back of the skirt just makes it amazing. Love it!

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  9. A perfect basic. Love the little bit of interest that makes it fun but still classic. Looks great with the top!

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  10. Lovely, lovely. The back is beautiful and I too think the color of the top is gorgeous. Great job!

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  11. I love how you make basics look so much fun to sew! I have that pattern and have loved it since it first came out but haven't sewn it yet. I think it's about time to pull it out and give it a go. Thanks!

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  12. So cute! I need one, too. Thanks for posting yours and giving me that jolt of inspiration.

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  13. A pencil skirt is a fabulous base for the year ... I love the princess seams, they look so good. The back of the skirt impressed me positively. Adorable!

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  14. I love, love, love the back of your skirt! Ok, I love the skirt period; however, the back is my favorite!

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  15. This is such a polished look. I really love the bright top with the black skirt and the skirt is a wonderfully constructed basic. I agree with your thinking on the lining and facings. Having the lining go to the top definitely gives you a smoother finish. The skirt is a perfect fit!

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  16. I think facings just add bulk right in the tummy area where most women are trying to look slimmer. If I plan to add a lining, I always use the facings for an interfacing pattern piece and fuse that to the lining. Then it doesn't stretch out and you get some stability at the top of the skirt. Great skirt! I never noticed the back of the pattern, but I love me some back interest as well. I am curious to see you make that side gathered view, as I've always thought it would be unflattering. Maybe you'll convince me to make yet another design!

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  17. What a beautiful skirt! You'll look good coming and going! As for the facings - what I learned from my days of alterations - the higher end RTW seems to have the facing sewn onto the lining top (i.e. there is no lining under the facing itself - does that make sense?), which is then tacked at the seams from the inside. That way, you only have the interfaced facing and outer layer at the top of the skirt (and, of course twill tape for stabilizing), but the plus side of that is that you would never have lining peeking out at the waist, and you could use any crazy colour you wished inside.

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  18. What a fun detail at the back! I just love that Jalie shirt.

    I haven't beein using facings on skirts either; no matter the fabric, they always seem to add bulk.

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  19. Fantastic skirt! One can always use a black pencil skirt, right? I tend to wear pants most of the time but in the winter I'll occasionally wear a black skirt with black opaque tights.

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  20. Looks good! I really like the back detail. You've encouraged me to put a black skirt on my list. I definitely have a need for one! I like your idea of sewing seam tape to stabilize the waist. I didn't do that on my red skirt. I did go back and add some twill tape to the waist seam. That helped a lot.

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  21. Very nice! You will get lots of wear out it, I'm sure. I hope you make the one with the gathers. I'm intrigued.

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  22. Very pretty skirt, the back detail is wonderful design feature.

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  23. How cute! A flirty-skirty! Love the gathers in the back.

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  24. really really nice, & looks great with that gorgeous purple top! you need a jacket to match now ;-)

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  25. that is an awesome skirt...looks great on you. I like the way you bypassed the facings and just attached the lining to the waist. I also like you idea of making the facings part of the lining....

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  26. That skirt is beautiful. I love it.

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  27. What a fantastic skirt. A classic with a twist! And thank you for the photo of the inside...I had wondered how they managed lining with that inset.

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  28. Really pretty - a great basic, but with a fun detail in the back. I like!

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  29. What a great basic! I love that it has a little personality to it and isn't a totally boring basic black skirt.

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  30. Gorgeous! That back detail is divine.

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