Simplicity 'Amazing Fit' dress - finished!

Fortunately I recovered from my mishap with this dress (confessed to in my last post) pretty quickly and now, of course, I’m telling myself that I really do love the tab and buttons. Isn’t it funny how we Sewists can so quickly adapt and think positively? A ‘foolish mistake’ can become a ‘design decision’ and so we find ourselves with a dress we love.

Anyway, put some sunglasses on, because here it is

That orange is pretty dazzling isn’t it? In the summertime I’m a sucker for bright colours – orange, yellow, throw in a bit of hot pink and I’m happy!

The fabric is a cotton pique that I purchased from Elliott Berman in New York and I think it’s just right for this style – it’s soft but not too thin, it has some body but isn’t too stiff. Normally I’m a bit of a lining fiend but, as the pattern didn’t call for a lining, and I felt this fabric would be good on its own, I have made it unlined.

The pattern is Simplicity 2648 and the instructions are interesting – I think they’re either genius or annoying, depending on what you want. It’s an ‘Amazing Fit’ pattern so they give you loads of helpful instructions on how to get the fit just right but in order to do this they ask you to baste the whole dress together, make your adjustments, then TAKE IT APART and sew it together again DIFFERENTLY. What I mean by this is that you baste the front bodice and front skirt together then you baste the back bodice and back skirt together and then baste front to back (so it’s easy to fit down the sides). Then you take it apart and sew it together the more usual way – i.e. sew the bodice, then sew the skirt, then join the two together. It’s great if you need to be guided through the fitting process.

Personally, I didn’t do it that way. I bought the pattern because it has separate pattern pieces for A, B, C or D, cups (always a big selling point for me!) and, of course I really liked the style. I like the close-fitting princess seam bodice and I like that the skirt front has two vertical seams with no darts. I did the fitting by making a muslin. I am such a weird shape that I usually have to make all sorts of adjustments that wouldn’t be so easy to make later, once the nice fabric was cut. However, as long as you are prepared to sort out which part of the instructions you want to follow and which you want to ignore, then I really recommend this pattern.

Before I go, here is a close-up of that button tab that I’ve grown to love so much

But next time I make this pattern I’m going for the version with the belt because I think I’m going to love that too. Hey, I’m easy to please!

Oh, I could kick myself!

Note to Self: When making a garment, please READ THE INSTRUCTIONS. You may think you know how to do it but a little glance at the instructions as you go along really will save upsets. Yes, like that nasty moment we had yesterday!

Readers, I’m making this dress, from Simplicity 2648.

I decided to make the sleeveless version with the round neck (like the drawing on the bottom left) but with the little fake belt with the buckle at the front (like the drawing in the middle). Having altered my pattern for an ‘Amazing Fit’ and cut out my fabric I was pretty excited and all set to go. I sewed the bodice front to the side fronts, made the darts in the bodice back, sewed the back to the front at the shoulders and side seams, checked the fit – great, and then serged all seams. Then I noticed some pieces sitting on the table, yep, the belt pieces!

Now any reasonably experienced sewist will probably know that sewing the belt pieces to the bodice front is the FIRST thing I should have done, before sewing the front to the side fronts. Actually, I did know this myself because I had, at some point in the last week or two, read the instructions and, thank you Simplicity, they couldn’t have been clearer. It’s just that I never bothered to look at them again when it came to actually sewing the thing and I FORGOT the belt pieces.

I hate to unpick a serged seam but I would have done it if it hadn’t been for the fact that my cotton pique fabric, lovely as it is, ravels a lot and, because it was a curved princess seam, I had serged it right next to the seam stitching. I feared that an attempt to take it apart would end in disaster.

So, alas, no little belt with a nice buckle. I really wanted that little belt. Instead it’s going to have to be the tab with the two buttons (like in the main photo on the pattern). Fortunately sewing and attaching that tab is the last thing you have to do. So, now I’m off to buy some buttons!

In the meantime, have you ever forgotten a crucial sewing step – please tell me that I’m not the only one?!

Simplicity dress - version two completed!

In my last post I promised a second version of Simplicity 2403 and here it is -

This dress started out with a piece of fabric at Metro Textiles (in New York), seized upon during my recent shopping trip there with Carolyn, Elizabeth and Opal (thanks to you all for your valuable input on my choice). There was only just over a yard left but I thought, that’s fine, it will make a very nice skirt and, at $5.00 for such a good quality piece of stretch cotton, it’s a bargain.

Later, (in New York Elegant Fabrics) I happened to chance upon a piece of cotton lawn that perfectly matched the aqua/mint shade in the print. So I thought, great, that will make a nice little blouse to go with the skirt. Next I found myself in M & J Trimmings and chanced upon some grosgrain ribbon that was exactly the same colour. And that’s when it came to me. Forget this separate skirt and blouse idea - why not use the Simplicity pattern I had just used for my last dress to combine both fabrics into a shirtwaist dress?

I have to say that when I got back to London my heart did sink a little at the prospect of making another version of this dress because (as I moaned in my last post) there is a lot of work with this pattern. However, my enthusiasm for the project overcame my reluctance. This time I decided that I wouldn’t have the tie belt but instead I sewed grosgrain ribbon onto the middle of the waistband before attaching it to the dress. I also decided to add the front ruffles that are one of the ‘designer additions’ included in the pattern.

Ah, yes, the ruffles. They nearly defeated me. The pattern has you cut four ruffle pieces and you’re supposed to narrow hem each of them, then place them one on top of each other in pairs – two for the left side and two for the right side. Now normally I’m not too bad at narrow hemming but the fabric was very fine and the pieces were small and the curves at the bottom were very curvy! Readers, it was horrible. I tried several times but in the end I just had four sad chewed up little rags – definitely not fit to be sewn down my front! Now, of course, I could have just binned the ruffles and gone without but I WANTED RUFFLES!!

Then it came to me. I cut four more ruffles but this time I sewed them together in pairs with the right sides together then turned them right sides out, pressed them and, voila, beautiful ruffles. So what I have is one double layered ruffle either side, rather than two single layer ruffles either side. Here’s a close up of the bodice –


So, there it is. Conceived in New York, fashioned (with a lot of faffing) in London - another dress came into the world and I like it quite a lot.

So where is that Simplicity dress I said I was making?

Before I set off for my New York trip I mentioned that I was feverishly working to finish Simplicity 2403 and I’m sure that you are all wondering – did she ever finish it? And, if so, where is it?

I am pleased to report that, yes, I did finish it and, to prove it, here is a picture of me hanging around the streets of New York wearing it.

The pattern is this one -

As with all the Project Runway patterns there are a whole lot of style variations to choose from. My version has the stand collar and the waistband has tie ends (I used a piece of black cotton that I had in my stash for this).

Here is a closer picture of the bodice –

The pattern doesn’t call for a lining but I added a lightweight one to the skirt part only, just to add a bit of extra body to the cotton fabric and to make sure it wouldn’t be see through or cling to my legs! Here’s a picture of inside the dress.

I pretty much followed the pattern instructions except that I used an invisible zipper instead of a regular one and instead of using purchased bias binding for the armholes I made my own from the dress fabric remnants. Oh, and I omitted the slit that is supposed to go on the left hand side of the skirt – I just didn’t feel it would look right and the skirt definitely doesn’t need it for walking in.

This dress isn’t difficult to make but there is a LOT to do. The front has princess seams; the back has a yoke with a gathered bodice; there are front bands with buttons and buttonholes; a stand collar; the waistband needs attaching to the bodice with its facing; the skirt has inset pockets and pleats at the front and darts at the back; the skirt (and the lining) has to be attached to the waistband, a side zipper has to be inserted, the armholes need binding, the waistband ties have to be made and attached and, finally, you can hem the skirt.

Phew! Was it worth it? Mmm, I think so.

In fact, I have already embarked on a second, but quite different looking, version and I’m hoping to finish that very soon ……..

Fabric buying in New York - part two!

In my last post I promised that full disclosure of all my fabric buying in the New York garment district would be forthcoming. I have already confessed to my purchases in Metro Textiles …….. but I also visited Mood, Elliott Berman, New York Elegant Fabrics and, oh yes, Paron. And fabric was purchased in each of them!

In Elliott Berman’s I clearly had summer on my mind (and no wonder – the daytime temperature was mostly well into the nineties the whole time I was in New York!). These were my choices

On the left is a sheer cotton print (made for the NY designer Milly) and the one on the right is a cotton pique. I really enjoyed my visit to Elliott Berman’s, they stock some beautiful fabrics and their sales person, Eugenia (it was nice to meet a Eugenia!), was extremely helpful and knowledgeable. Thank you Lindsay T for the excellent recommendation.

Over at Mood I continued the summer theme with these two fabrics.

The one at the top is linen and the one at the bottom is a silk charmeuse. Now I really should mention here that I already have in my stash some fabric that has exactly the same print as this silk charmeuse – but it is a cotton/silk twill that I purchased online, last May, from Emma One Sock, and it is designed by Oscar de la Renta. So, I am going to have some fun making a garment or outfit that combines the same print in the two textures – oh, Oscar, when the time comes, I hope I don’t let you down!

Also at Mood I purchased about 4 yards of a lovely plain black cotton knit that was a nice dress weight and draped well – a good stash standby. At Paron I bought three yards of a beautiful crepe back satin, also in black, just right for that LBD I’m always thinking I should make. This was priced at $30 per yard but they discounted it to $25 so I don’t feel quite so bad about my extravagance. Lastly, at New York Elegant Fabrics, I found some cotton lawn in a pretty aqua colour that co-ordinated perfectly with the stretch cotton that I had already bought in Metro Textiles.

So, there you have it. That fabric haul is certainly going to keep me busy for a while! I doubt whether all the summery prints will get made up before the fall arrives but, hey, think how nice they’re going to look in my stash in the dark winter months.

Fabric fun in New York City ....

Hi everyone, I’m back home in London and what a fabulous time I had in New York City!!

The highlight of my trip was a lunchtime meet up with Carolyn (Diary of a Sewing Fanatic) and Elizabeth (Sew A Beginner). Of course that meant fabric shopping so our chosen venue was Metro Textiles where we bumped into a familiar face – Opal, from Opals Passions. Isn’t the sewing blogosphere great ? – it was like meeting up with old friends! I had The Best Time - talking fabrics, getting sewing tips and swapping stories.

Here’s a picture of my three lovely friends (from left to right Elizabeth, Carolyn and Opal)

Thank you ladies for giving me such a wonderful welcome to your home town!

And here’s a picture of me, Carolyn and Opal with the very charming Kashi from Metro Textiles.

So, did I buy anything? Well of course I did – between the compelling chat – I managed to grab myself a few gorgeous pieces at some very good prices.

From left to right: a luxurious printed silk charmeuse, a cotton in a big print in fabulous colours, a stretch cotton sateen in black and white with aqua accents.

Now is probably the time to confess that these weren’t my only fabric purchases whilst in New York – later in the week I revisited the garment district and picked up a few more yards here and there. But I’m going to save those for another blog post. Right now I’m jet lagged and in unpacking chaos but, although I was sad to leave NY, it’s exciting to be back home with my sewing machine and with lots of new fabrics and ideas to inspire me.

So, more soon ……

Enough already with the Burda skirt ......

I have already made two versions of the a-line skirt, pattern 104, in the February issue of Burda Style magazine (featured in this post) but I couldn’t resist making one more.

I purchased some lovely cotton sateen from Gorgeous Fabrics and felt it would be perfect for this easy to wear and easy to make style. I really love a black and white skirt, especially for summer. You can always pair it with either black or white but I think it also looks great with a pop of just about any bright colour. As my DH hasn’t been around enough to grab a picture of me wearing the skirt (and do you really need to see me in the third version of this skirt?!), I’m showing you a photo of it alongside the top and accessories I am going to wear it with today.

Much as I love the pattern, I think that this has to be the last time I make it – well for this year at least!

So here’s what I’m working on at the moment.

It’s a kind of shirtwaist style and I’m making it in this art deco style cotton print (purchased from the UK based supplier Chrysalis Fabrics) with a plain black waistband and bow.

Cool to wear but not totally casual is my aim.

As soon as it’s completed it’s going straight into my suitcase. Yes, I said suitcase because, HURRAH, on Sunday my DH and I are off to that great centre of fabulousness - New York City - for two whole weeks! I can hardly wait to step foot on those sparkling, but hot, streets of Manhattan. I think I might find myself in the garment district once or twice …… or more. Yes, I know my stash is stuffed but who can resist the lure of the New York garment district?

While I’m away I shall try to get to a computer to read your blogs and see what you’re all doing so that I don’t miss you too much, although I shall probably be taking a vacation from blogging myself. However, I do hope to have some nice things to show you on my return …….