Monday, 4 July 2011

Yes, it's that dress again and yay or nay for hand stitching?

No apologies, but I have made yet another version of Simplicity 3503. I'm calling this latest version (number five) my 'English Summer Garden Dress' - just right for afternoon tea, the village fete and, of course, garden parties, where I can blend into the rose bushes!

When the fabric, which is a rayon lycra mix, arrived from Gorgeous Fabrics I loved it so much that I didn't want to take any risks with it. At the best of times knit fabrics can behave in quite wilful and unpredictable ways, so having a pattern you've made before really does increase your chances of finishing up with a dress that you love.

The pattern gives you a lot of different options.

Simplicity 3503
The one I made is in the bottom right hand corner (but I didn't use a contrasting fabric for the midriff or neck band).

I do love the sleeves

If I flap my arms hard enough will I take off?
They give coverage but because they are loose they are not too hot on warm days.

Whenever I make this pattern I follow the instructions as written except for one thing. Instead of machine stitching the neck band facing to the neck band at the inner edge I like to hand stitch it. Usually I am all for patterns that give you instructions for machine stitching rather than hand stitching but, in this particular case, I have found that it is easier to control the knit fabric, and keep it looking neat on the inside, if the facing is stitched down by hand. I also like the look of the clean neck band without machine stitching on the outside. But that's just me - if you hate to hand stitch, then following the pattern instructions is the way to go.

Neck band facing inside dress

I don't like to do lots of hand stitching but I do enjoy it sometimes - I find it rather relaxing to be stitching away and listening to the radio and I like the exactness of it. How about you? Do you love it? Do you only do it if you absolutely have to? Or have you worked out all sorts of ingenious ways so that you can stitch absolutely everything by machine?

Is hand stitching haute couture or hateful? I'd love to know what you think .....


  1. For me, it's a resounding... it depends. I don't find it hateful, and on some fabrics handstitching can definitely give you a control (like you say) that you just can't get on the machine. That is worth SO many headaches!

  2. I just made the short cross-over version of this pattern and I am HOOKED!
    This was my first pattern that used knit fabric, and I am so proud of comfortable.

  3. Another fab version! You always make me want to run out and buy this pattern! I don't mind a little hand stitching. It often takes me less time in the long run because I don't end up undoing and redoing things. Besides, I can do it in the evening in front of the tv.

  4. Beautiful dress! And I love the print also. I like hand stitching. I find it relaxing. And it is the bit of sewing that I can take outside and enjoy the patio (when weather permits).

    I did read a helpful tip in one of the Thread magazines from a reader. When hand stitching a hem of a dress it was suggested to knot every seven stitches. Clever! That way if the thread breaks and the hem falls, it could be limited to a small section.

  5. You're right, Eugenia, that fabric is to die for. Totally gorgeous. Personally, I love a bit of handstitching to give a lovely, personal and sometimes invisible touch.

  6. I love this pattern but I havent made this version yet. It looks fabulous on your figure! I might have to try this version now, thanks for the inspiration!

  7. Perfect summer dress. A true garden dress.

  8. each time your show a dress I tell myself to get this pattern. very pretty.
    and hand stitching - I do it all the time, I think its faster than pinning and machine stitching facings etc.

  9. That sleeve is absolutely gorgeous! Hand stitching can be very therapeutic at times... I hand stitch most of my facing.. That's how I learnt in pattern making class many years ago. Nice dress Eugenia!

  10. First the dress is beautiful! If it works for you I don't see why you don't make it again and again.

    Second, hand stitching use to be a dirty word to me but you can control so much when you use it that I've made friends with the process.

    Diary of a Sewing Fanatic

  11. Another lovely dress. The print is fantastic! As far as hand stitching, I've come to enjoy it. It's relaxing, and I can sit on the comfy couch and watch a program with the husband while I stitch away. My machine is hidden away in another room, so it can get lonely.

  12. Beautiful dress and a gorgeous print! I'm all for hand stitching hems and necklines -- they're just too visible to risk a poor result but how long does it really take in the scheme of things?

  13. Another gorgeous dress!
    I like hand stitching - don't quite understand why some people don't. I actually look forward to when all I have left on a project are the bits that need to be done by hand - a sign that the project is almost done.

  14. For me, hand sewing is very relaxing and therapeutic, so if I can do it, it's ok. Of course, another absolutely beautiful dress! This summer is heavenly printed as a pattern and so proved, you do not risk losing that wonderful fabric. Extra Bonus!

  15. I always hate handstitching until I do it - and then it's quick and not too bad! And, nothing beats it for control. I love your dress - another winning ensemble!

  16. another beautiful dress ! I only hand sew when I have too but I enjoy it as well because you can multitask = ie have a cup of tea as well. The only task I really don`t like is cutting out and I`m not sure why . Thanks for dropping by the other day=made my day !

  17. Gorgeous fabric, and a dress pattern that goes in the category of "I think I really DO want to sew (and wear) a dress!" Simplicity's are going on sale at JA's soon, I believe....

    As for hand sewing, I neither hate nor love it, but I would absolutely hand stitch a facing like that. I enjoy the process of trying to improve, while getting faster. I guess I just like a challenge :)

  18. Lovely! I like the sleeves, too. I like dress patterns that give you the option of long sleeves. I like to hand stitch sometimes. I do feel like I have more control when doing it by hand.

  19. Love hand sewing! I find it very relaxing as well!

  20. Love the dress!! Perfect for a garden party.

    I actually enjoy hand stitching and do think it can be very haute couture. I pop on some music and just stitch away. I feel I have more control over the fabric and I am fast and accurate. Not sure why hand stitching gets such a bad rap.

  21. I love hand sewing , it really is one of my favourite parts of the construction process. I love this version it's so pretty.

  22. I also enjoy hand stitching. In particular it gives me a chance to sit with the family, watch TV and sew. You really have had great value from this pattern. Love this version - you need one of those English summer party hats.

  23. That dress is beautiful and you look great in it. I do like to do hand sewing. I tend to do the hem of my woven garments by hand. I recently did the armhole area on my Vogue 1250 by hand. I wanted a more finished look and no rippling on the sleeve which you can sometimes get on knits.

  24. Gorgeous dress and I love the bell sleeves. I have found they really are comfortable for hot weather too. I really enjoy hand-stitching and feel it is a must in some of my creations.

  25. I love every version you have done for Simplicity 3503. I REALLY need to sew mine. I do enjoy following your blog tremendously! This one and Vogue 1179 are on my list, because of the varied and beautiful versions you have sewn. You have demonstrated so well how much fabric selection can change the look completely, and that it's not a "sin" to sew multiple versions when you know a pattern is flattering on you.

  26. Another great dress, you look fantastic. I will do handstitching when necessary but it isn't high on my list!

  27. I absolutely loathe handstitching, and I have not figured out a way around it.

    I don't think you can have enough dresses from this pattern. I am totally loving this print. Beautiful as always.

    It was so nice hearing from on my blog. Thank you so much for stopping by and leaving such a nice comment. Tomorrow I am posting a dialect/accent video of myself talking if you are interested.

  28. I love the dress, and I think I'll be buying that pattern. As for hand stitching, I hate it with a passion. Although it does give control, it just frustrates me. However, for some reason I like to hand baste (either for gathering, or to keep seams like the hem in place on certain fabrics).

  29. I must get this pattern. Your versions have turned out beautifully. As for handstitching - I hate it and avoid it as much as possible. I'm not very good at it anyway so even when I do make the effort the results are not great. I don't have lots of tricks for avoiding it, but I use every method I've found on the Internet. And I have found that if I underline my skirts I can get a really invisible hem with my machine's blind hem foot by hemming onto the underlining.

  30. I love all your versions of this dress! I have this pattern in my stash...I really need to give it a go. :)
    As for hand stitching, I have much the same attitude as you. I don't like to have to do lots of it, but I don't mind it in small(ish) doses. It's nice to be able to do it & watch tv at the same time. :) And I love hand picked zippers.

  31. Yay for a feminine, rose-print dress. It looks lovely on you. I find that hand stitching is often faster for me than wrestling fabric through my machine. Especially when I have to hand baste something instead of using pins to wrestle the fabric through. Hand-stitched buttons stay on years longer than machine-stitched ones. Hems depend on the garment design, whether I want near-invisible hand stitching, or highly visible topstitching.

  32. This is just a great pattern with so many options!

    I used to loath hand stitching, but it turned out I just wasn't very good at it. After a project forced me to do a lot more by hand, I improved a lot and began to like it much more.

  33. That is such a fabulous dress, Eugenia. You have certainly convinced me that I could make several of these as well! I love it in the floral print.

  34. Beautiful dress. I stretched out my last knit neckline and will definitely be handstitching the next one. I think it can be peaceful--except when you're trying to hurry up and finish already!

  35. Where else where you gonna use such a great print??? Once again you paired a fantastic pattern and fabric. Great job! BTW, I love hand stitching, it's a hassle sometimes, but it's so therapeutic!

  36. That fabric is amazing! :-) And a great pattern too, deserving of being well used, I think this is my favourite version of your 5.

    I hand-sew/hand-finish too, its a control thing but also therapeutic but I have to be in the right mood. Sometimes I have to put the item aside until I am in that mood and then I will really enjoy it. Funnily enough I commented about this very same discussion on Gertie's blog today.

    Hope all is well with you!

  37. Such a fantastic dress! I think i will have to grab this pattern at the next sale. I must admit, I am not the biggest fan of hand sewing, but I think I just need more practice. :]

  38. Another gorgeous dress from a brilliant patttern.

    In terms of hand stitching, it depends why I'm doing it. I loved smocking baby and toddler garments for my girls, but I get frustrated when I'm hand sewing something because I can't get it to sit correctly with my machine.

  39. Love the dress! The print is very "English garden," and the colors are wonderful on you.

    I always think I hate hand-stitching, but then when I do it I find I enjoy it. I spent years as a kid sewing by hand before I graduated to the machine and it sort of brings me back. I have a loooong hem to hand-stitch this weekend....

  40. Beautiful dress! The fabric is gorgeous, looks like a summer garden, and I find loose sleeves very feminine because they are not that practical :), something that a leisure woman can afford.
    As for hand stitching I find it relaxing too.

  41. Oh, what pretty fabric! This is such a lovely summer dress - as you say, it will be perfect for so many occasions.

    I just absolutely dislike hand-stitching, but I do think it gets the best results on blind hems.

  42. I love that you've made 5 versions of this dress...all of them adorable. I've just pulled out 2 pieces of fabric that I want to make the same pattern from and was thinking maybe I'm slightly bonkers, but now feel even more enthused...and I know it works for Carolyn too.

    As for hand sewing, I adore it. So much so that I have an embroidery project on the go and am learning to sew hand quilted whole-cloth quilts, so a little on a garment is a treat for me rather than a chore.

  43. I am new visiting, so I have not seen your other dresses from this pattern, but if it is anything like this one - you have two winners!

    I like the fabric....I don't think you will get mixed up with the flowers will probably stand out completely - in the best possible way :)

  44. Very pretty dresses!! I like all of the versions. They all fit you perfectly.
    I do not like hand-stitching and only do it if I absolutely have to. But I agree, it is kind of relaxing.

  45. Such a cheery dress! But hand sewing? I avoid it as much as I can.

  46. I bought the pattern today, looking forward to making it. Did you have to do a full bust adjustment? I haven't seen a reference to that.

    I'm also a hand quilter, so stitching by hand doesn't bother me. I really like the control.

  47. How did I miss this beautiful pattern!! I can definitely see why it's one you enjoy!! Coupled with this gorgeous fabric, you have one heck of a dress here!

  48. Your dress is beautiful! The fit the fabric just perfect! I use to hate hand sewing now I don't mind it so much and kinda find it relaxing! I also would rather hand stitch my knits I find that they lay a little better.

  49. Tee Hee, I think hand stitching is Haute Couture. It can be relaxing at times. The dress is pretty and you're so funny.

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