So, decision made, in the pipeline is this lovely little number McCalls 5927 – “The Fashion Sheath”
A big selling point for this one is that it comes with separate pattern pieces for A/B, C and D cup sizes – such a boon (isn’t that a lovely vintage word?) for ladies of my shape, or, indeed, any shape that is not ‘standard’. I’m starting with a sleeveless version but I like that it has options for different sleeves if I decide that I want to make it again later. But I’m getting ahead of myself, goodness me, let’s get this one done first!
After a small amount of fiddling around, my muslin left me feeling rather hopeful – in fact it’s looking pretty promising. However, I would like to say a little something about the fitting. This dress has one of those bodices that doesn’t have horizontal, underarm darts, but has vertical darts that come from the waist up to the bust line. I’ve never made one of these before but the pattern, as it is made by McCalls, has one of those round things that indicate where the apex of the bust should be and the darts finish (just like horizontal darts do) one inch away from the apex. Here’s a picture of my traced-off pattern piece -
I measured the pattern and got it all worked out so that the apex mark on my muslin matched the bust point on my body but it looked all wrong. The darts didn’t sit right and it didn’t fit round my body at all. BUT, when I put a horizontal tuck across the bodice between the armholes and the shoulders to lift the whole thing up, so that the darts ended just a tiny fraction of an inch below my bust apex, it all fitted smoothly. Now I'd be interested to know if any of you have any thoughts on this but I found it a little puzzling because everything I’ve read about this kind of thing tells me that darts are supposed to end an inch or more before the apex. However, I’m going to ignore these rules and I’m making this dress the way I think it fits me best. Reckless – maybe! But it’s my dress and I’m going to do what I want and I did take some encouragement from Pati Palmer and Marta Alto in Fit for Real People because, although they seem to be pretty firm about ‘Bust Dart Rules’, they do also say “Just remember, if it works, it’s right!!”
So, anyway, I shall be posting pictures of this new dress soon – I do hope you're going to like it ......
I have nominated you for a Kreativ blogger award on my blog here :-)ReplyDelete
Just wanted to add that I have that problem with bust points too . I am short waisted so my bust point is higher than indicated on most patterns . Does the tuck leave you enough room elsewhere ? underarm etc ?ReplyDelete
I fell in love with that sheath pattern too.ReplyDelete
Thanks for your comment on my jacket and blouse.
The dress looks very nice.ReplyDelete
I hope you'll regulate pattern to fit you best.
I'm into any pattern that offers a C & D cup sizing. Are you listening Vogue and BWOF?ReplyDelete
Nice pattern. I am also like you, I love dresses and most of the time I just look at dress patterns only. I have SO MANY dress pattern's it's unbelievable! I already have too many dresses in my closet. Can't wait for the end result.ReplyDelete
Hi, I just found your blog from another blog. I read once that the larger your dart is, the closer the end should be to your apex. Or, just keep the original endpoint, and just sew several stitches past the endpoint towards the apex. This method seems to solve my "pointy dart" issue.ReplyDelete
Oh, also try curving the dart a little bit to make it fit better
I haven't seen this pattern. I, also, like all the options. Go ahead and be reckless!!ReplyDelete
Looking forward to see how this dress turns out - looks like the perfect sort of dress I could make for work in a few different fabrics! I am on the lookout for 'The Perfect Work Dress' pattern...ReplyDelete
Looks like a great pattern. I really like sheat dresses and look forward to the days I can wear them alot again (they are really not practical during nursing periods :-)). I look forward to the final dress!ReplyDelete
I love dresses - they're my favorite thing to sew (and wear!) - but I have not yet made myself a sheath dress. I happen to love the vertical darts on my particular body type, but I am not very busty. I am short from the bust apex to the shoulder so regular bust darts are often too low for me, but the vertical ones give me some good shaping effects. I would say that if you like the effect of the dart, leave it and forget the rules!ReplyDelete
I finished making the sleeveless dress version today and had to alter the armscye a lot, it gapes out a lot before alteration. When I read your post it makes me feel there is something wrong with the bodice pattern? You can see the dress in my blog
Even with the alteration I made the bodice seems a bit roomy around the front, like you said it needs a little lift with the dart you added. I had to push up the dress so it won't look so roomy in frontReplyDelete