tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-62586325438946191982024-03-18T21:27:41.715-07:00Eugenia's (fabulous) world of fashionEugeniahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07584571701550775408noreply@blogger.comBlogger114125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6258632543894619198.post-34080169911414780872011-11-14T06:41:00.000-08:002011-11-14T08:14:47.490-08:00Butterick 5602 - the shapely shift!As my last two makes were useful wardrobe basics I gave myself permission to indulge myself with another dress – I just love to make dresses! Since finishing my Chanel inspired dress (blogged about <a href="http://theworldofeugenia.blogspot.com/2011/10/my-chanel-inspired-dress-butterick-5602.html" target="_blank">here</a>) I have been eager to make another version of the pattern. Here’s what I came up with<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEVhWDH19_vj3dy4DtqMD1TKtCHvCTBrMEF5WYcEYwA-3NSHtNCnZlOw6XFBI0SfkL4OIb4Lbbtv8qTUeZLQkj4j7H5kx6MGgldHnqDDNOHBNlL3wJWP8CDIfmqLShwdtyEECtYG45vfAD/s1600/B5602+V2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400px" nda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEVhWDH19_vj3dy4DtqMD1TKtCHvCTBrMEF5WYcEYwA-3NSHtNCnZlOw6XFBI0SfkL4OIb4Lbbtv8qTUeZLQkj4j7H5kx6MGgldHnqDDNOHBNlL3wJWP8CDIfmqLShwdtyEECtYG45vfAD/s400/B5602+V2.jpg" width="300px" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Butterick 5602 shift dress</td></tr>
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This is the pattern<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgr6NQxxRDcndeP2_lTe49eye-sRW9jlNQ6lFXY-I5DK39Cq1KPz6wXk-7H6V9TPi48ZX7UeUZift3iWJlrl70j2tJGPYVTBUrpsQPrHoWiSU7Vwp49p1g-1gbxRagWJV1Zidy4vHmoFioH/s1600/B5602+pattern.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320px" nda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgr6NQxxRDcndeP2_lTe49eye-sRW9jlNQ6lFXY-I5DK39Cq1KPz6wXk-7H6V9TPi48ZX7UeUZift3iWJlrl70j2tJGPYVTBUrpsQPrHoWiSU7Vwp49p1g-1gbxRagWJV1Zidy4vHmoFioH/s320/B5602+pattern.jpg" width="303px" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Butterick 5602 pattern envelope</td></tr>
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Last time I made the one with sleeves, this time I made the version pictured on the right (but without the bow at the neck – it’s not that I don’t like bows, I do, but I just didn’t want a bow on this).<br />
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The fabric is a wool challis, called ‘Stingray Frieze’ purchased from <a href="http://www.voguefabricsstore.com/" target="_blank">Vogue Fabrics</a>. I love the print and it has a beautiful (in the words of Vogue Fabrics) “featherweight weave” and “alluring drape” - it certainly is lovely and light to wear. I used a plain black wool challis for the neck and hem bands and I lined it with my favourite bemberg rayon lining.<br />
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There’s not a lot else to say about this pattern – it’s a simple shift dress, nicely shaped and fairly fast and easy to make. So, moving on, I’m going to reveal what I’m working on right now, which is this skirt from the October issue of Burda Style. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHypeC5AqNhVUlkKzarvqG1WXY_gE8aZotWtgd1MzEHlBs4gYUeVQ5nxiZqjzoGXBCpxyWzGk27lhUUi41NekIrca7cTdwny5pdNI4hxHvC019PEaw9VxqXaDdf49zegV9bGPC6xVxGKp6/s1600/Burda+10-2011-119+photo.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400px" nda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHypeC5AqNhVUlkKzarvqG1WXY_gE8aZotWtgd1MzEHlBs4gYUeVQ5nxiZqjzoGXBCpxyWzGk27lhUUi41NekIrca7cTdwny5pdNI4hxHvC019PEaw9VxqXaDdf49zegV9bGPC6xVxGKp6/s400/Burda+10-2011-119+photo.jpg" width="226px" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Burda Style October 2011 #119</td></tr>
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Despite liking lots of patterns in Burda Style magazine I haven’t actually made one for a while. I think that what has been putting me off is that since they have been printing twice as many patterns on each of their pattern sheets it is a REAL PAIN to trace them. (Hello, people who run Burda Style – did you hear that?) But I bit the bullet and got on with it. However, I do have a tip to make it a little easier. Before you lay the tracing paper on the pattern sheets, take a brightly coloured highlighter pen and go over the lines for each of the pattern pieces in the size that you want to trace.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_BNaGosoUKC3i4DmZk5COmw19H6IK6Jsek090QR5iw9uJDZD0ClWUJWAZtGDdCTFqO_TbwgdG7NMx6gJspvpEtHJ3PfJXMbxBTiN4R_s79wjajumgzzWkKiXX6aaNietRuboYvOjeMakY/s1600/Burda+10-20011-119+pattern+sheet.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300px" nda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_BNaGosoUKC3i4DmZk5COmw19H6IK6Jsek090QR5iw9uJDZD0ClWUJWAZtGDdCTFqO_TbwgdG7NMx6gJspvpEtHJ3PfJXMbxBTiN4R_s79wjajumgzzWkKiXX6aaNietRuboYvOjeMakY/s400/Burda+10-20011-119+pattern+sheet.jpg" width="400px" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The pattern pieces I want are highlighted in yellow</td></tr>
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If you do this, it is much easier to identify through the tracing paper the lines that you should be following. It’s still a pain, but not quite so bad! Now the worst bit is over, the skirt is coming along nicely. So, more about that soon …Eugeniahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07584571701550775408noreply@blogger.com178tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6258632543894619198.post-27812386157254284172011-11-05T10:54:00.000-07:002011-11-05T10:54:04.112-07:00Black jeans and a flower-power t-shirt!Much as I would like to spend my time making Chanel inspired dresses (see my last post) I really felt that it was time to get down to creating some autumn casual basics. And for that, of course, you can’t beat jeans and a t-shirt.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeLcJ5iVRONOfsYESFzN1uQtxGiebjWsaYrhaxykexJHcbRP4MOwxSXRqzcedAb17Eftz7IXq7WmoZ9V6fZX7BBMmtF4LjklJUkwM-1jnWr45r3yFeRAecBYvcKYuZ5L-XAbI9X-WBYsl1/s1600/V8536+%252B+M5894+016.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400px" ida="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeLcJ5iVRONOfsYESFzN1uQtxGiebjWsaYrhaxykexJHcbRP4MOwxSXRqzcedAb17Eftz7IXq7WmoZ9V6fZX7BBMmtF4LjklJUkwM-1jnWr45r3yFeRAecBYvcKYuZ5L-XAbI9X-WBYsl1/s400/V8536+%252B+M5894+016.jpg" width="300px" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vogue 8536 & McCalls 5894</td></tr>
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When making this outfit I was aiming for a casual but ‘put-together’ look. For the jeans I chose a black cotton lycra twill fabric, it’s sturdy but has some give for comfort. I added brass rivets and a brass button<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4uKMyiHWyHC1TyaTmI1VpJJcxqpz4MTwG8XNiWddNKmiaZiajUPkJ1YqTXfOH6XPLbZc-qX4i35gSRrwJeN_hLoP88jUN-SYYWITjaI5rUmTJ87Uhf_CFRpNAvLb_ruBr_Fm9HjZ2w0l_/s1600/M5894+V2+006.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300px" ida="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4uKMyiHWyHC1TyaTmI1VpJJcxqpz4MTwG8XNiWddNKmiaZiajUPkJ1YqTXfOH6XPLbZc-qX4i35gSRrwJeN_hLoP88jUN-SYYWITjaI5rUmTJ87Uhf_CFRpNAvLb_ruBr_Fm9HjZ2w0l_/s400/M5894+V2+006.jpg" width="400px" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Black jeans with brass hardware</td></tr>
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The pattern is McCalls 5894 – it’s the second time I have used this jeans pattern, so for more about the pattern, and my tips for making jeans, check out my earlier post <a href="http://theworldofeugenia.blogspot.com/2011/05/finished-jeans-and-some-tips.html" target="_blank">here</a>.<br />
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The t-shirt is made from Vogue 8536<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1J_HpXJjh35TMlmhC9B0f8sraf5lwRs3D-ShBJSO22w53NKtapZl27ohr80X8y_384is75i4-IQOCThwW8Q-kqohVzToqMASyBkPTYTZLklEyU4OiI41V4JPw-X6LOuS_MeF81REA93FF/s1600/V8536+pattern.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320px" ida="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1J_HpXJjh35TMlmhC9B0f8sraf5lwRs3D-ShBJSO22w53NKtapZl27ohr80X8y_384is75i4-IQOCThwW8Q-kqohVzToqMASyBkPTYTZLklEyU4OiI41V4JPw-X6LOuS_MeF81REA93FF/s320/V8536+pattern.jpg" width="303px" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vogue 8536</td></tr>
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I have to say that I LOVE this pattern, it has some great shaping. What the pattern envelope pictures (or my photograph) don’t show very clearly is that the front has a little gathered section at the side seams at bust level. You can (just about) see in the line drawings what I mean<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8mye4CLw1iO_3yhPbr1JOBvcGJ8rwrdZwAgiRft39um6ZG2vIponsOamPyWVJ8fDv-cHmi2jxcjJ9HvNVmG5JSdkaRvh3I88zB52PUGZ4qOiTUjsbBqMVwBpgIV68JJNrgclcJRM91MaY/s1600/V8536+line+drawing.gif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="237px" ida="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8mye4CLw1iO_3yhPbr1JOBvcGJ8rwrdZwAgiRft39um6ZG2vIponsOamPyWVJ8fDv-cHmi2jxcjJ9HvNVmG5JSdkaRvh3I88zB52PUGZ4qOiTUjsbBqMVwBpgIV68JJNrgclcJRM91MaY/s400/V8536+line+drawing.gif" width="400px" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vogue 8536 line drawings</td></tr>
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I added some extra ease by doing an FBA that created a ‘dart’ but instead of sewing the dart I just incorporated it into the gathers at the side seam. The effect is subtle but it makes for a much better fit around the bust, especially if, like me, you are ‘curvy’. Another design feature of this pattern is the deep hem with side slits –<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8-5DFTZl7RO6gNgqVXXVY1UJW1fVRroU4-mTVW9I7zeQzJ4f07aGfiTPclq9eG1duoCKu2iNNPHl996YsYFWAnJ5ZKQr3JbJ40pNuvDpaFYaFaFbfIw0J-OnCKb6TF9NFVmGDR7b7o4SX/s1600/V8536+017.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400px" ida="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8-5DFTZl7RO6gNgqVXXVY1UJW1fVRroU4-mTVW9I7zeQzJ4f07aGfiTPclq9eG1duoCKu2iNNPHl996YsYFWAnJ5ZKQr3JbJ40pNuvDpaFYaFaFbfIw0J-OnCKb6TF9NFVmGDR7b7o4SX/s400/V8536+017.jpg" width="352px" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Deep hem and side vent</td></tr>
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I think that this makes it look a little dressier than the average casual t-shirt and it means that the hem sits very nicely when worn with skirts. The fabric I used was a rayon lycra mix, purchased from <a href="http://www.voguefabricsstore.com/home.php" target="_blank">Vogue Fabrics</a> - I was attracted by the fun flower print. I can see me making this pattern several times more and I think it would be very lovely and luxurious made in a silk jersey.<br />
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I feel that I have made a very slow start on my fall sewing but in the last couple of weeks I have worked out lots of plans for clothes that I am eager to make. I do hope that your sewing for this season is going well?Eugeniahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07584571701550775408noreply@blogger.com60tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6258632543894619198.post-15523121720458181492011-10-16T07:33:00.000-07:002011-10-16T07:33:33.342-07:00My Chanel inspired dress - Butterick 5602!Last week I was in a frenzy of indecision - so many fabric and pattern possibilities were whirring around my brain that I just didn’t know what to make next. At times like this I think that you can’t go too far wrong if you turn to the classics. And you can’t get much more classic than a Coco Chanel inspired little black dress trimmed with white.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgT3jq3DnIx3KXg4gN3szYc6gKoVMv9sz7uYM7IgVad6UXPOkc5-fSCQDtjimm0WmEIK-eOg3qiIbEcd_TVeYwU02NxkXzvRR9y1f47KEwj8eKKNoaFcllxF-hlzI7XzdT_h7EBrocYX3a9/s1600/B5602+008.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgT3jq3DnIx3KXg4gN3szYc6gKoVMv9sz7uYM7IgVad6UXPOkc5-fSCQDtjimm0WmEIK-eOg3qiIbEcd_TVeYwU02NxkXzvRR9y1f47KEwj8eKKNoaFcllxF-hlzI7XzdT_h7EBrocYX3a9/s400/B5602+008.jpg" width="300px" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The LBD inspired by Coco Chanel</td></tr>
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<em>"I said that black has it all. White too. Their beauty is absolute. It is the perfect harmony.”</em> Coco Chanel.<br />
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The pattern I used was Butterick 5602<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi98iJAmIdmPNLvm74YVOAYDxG0gQEyuQ2kmMCCeLah2klPQGOEyQy9kc8yQvcIKPn2HnLd0HxBZkFBfJDUBFL18-hk82k-gKmFKygeHOOyE1OMCrrKwyoKDwUpi7jUWRhRRibjKIRUn4yy/s1600/B5602+pattern.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi98iJAmIdmPNLvm74YVOAYDxG0gQEyuQ2kmMCCeLah2klPQGOEyQy9kc8yQvcIKPn2HnLd0HxBZkFBfJDUBFL18-hk82k-gKmFKygeHOOyE1OMCrrKwyoKDwUpi7jUWRhRRibjKIRUn4yy/s400/B5602+pattern.jpg" width="378px" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Butterick 5602</td></tr>
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I made the version drawn in pink but without the bow. I was aiming for a comfortable shift dress, as Coco also said:<em> “Luxury must be comfortable, otherwise it is not luxury”. </em><br />
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However, I didn’t want it to be totally shapeless. This dress has both horizontal and vertical darts at the front and vertical darts at the back – so there is plenty of scope for getting a good fit at the bust and some curving in at the waistline. <br />
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The fabric I used is 100% wool crepe purchased from <a href="http://www.lintondirect.co.uk/" target="_blank">Linton Tweeds</a> who are based in Carlisle but also have an online store. If you are going to make a ‘Chanel’ dress there is nowhere better to turn to than Linton. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipOwFebZvOTevIRmTAd9I5M9H-0rwTIxZ7E8xwwj5VQamhjkvpqeZrXMc41kCNMqSFwFrVXxoJHRCw2xjGwpxSFdcQdtEwXwHoNLWqA3oKoxdCmjOCUMsLFKCKUJNtwPlCVmkW5BXQyy4A/s1600/Linton+Fabric+Showroom.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipOwFebZvOTevIRmTAd9I5M9H-0rwTIxZ7E8xwwj5VQamhjkvpqeZrXMc41kCNMqSFwFrVXxoJHRCw2xjGwpxSFdcQdtEwXwHoNLWqA3oKoxdCmjOCUMsLFKCKUJNtwPlCVmkW5BXQyy4A/s400/Linton+Fabric+Showroom.jpg" width="400px" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.lintondirect.co.uk/" target="_blank">Linton Tweeds</a> showroom in Carlisle</td></tr>
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They have been supplying fabric to Chanel since Coco herself was in residence at her Paris Salon in the Rue Cambon. To this day Linton still count the house of Chanel as one of their most prestigious clients – along with Oscar de la Renta, Balenciaga, Michael Kors, Lanvin and Caroline Herrera. Oh, and little old me, Eugenia! They supply a wonderful range of tweeds and fancy fabrics as well as a top quality wool crepe in a variety of colours. <br />
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So, with a sewing machine, a few hours work and some wool crepe anyone can have a made to measure ‘Chanel’ dress!Eugeniahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07584571701550775408noreply@blogger.com95tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6258632543894619198.post-20991045194001304552011-10-07T05:23:00.000-07:002011-10-07T05:23:21.526-07:00Cape Fear or Cape of Good Hope?Throughout the last winter I harboured a hankering for a cape but I never got around to making one. This year I decided to jump right in and make one before those nagging suspicions that a cape would look silly and be totally impractical stopped me.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpeQ7UxkaSD9zhC5GQx9KHXHj5Y6eSZ47-owX5TxPm2u2mWM8HrmEkTfkIdP0Oje15SZTu20PzxU_yRizuySefOUoqmKMPeLj3OtHa8sMnbOjaY1C9C49O4vkPM1-PizcugTNazKC1yDIL/s1600/B2916V+028.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400px" kca="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpeQ7UxkaSD9zhC5GQx9KHXHj5Y6eSZ47-owX5TxPm2u2mWM8HrmEkTfkIdP0Oje15SZTu20PzxU_yRizuySefOUoqmKMPeLj3OtHa8sMnbOjaY1C9C49O4vkPM1-PizcugTNazKC1yDIL/s400/B2916V+028.jpg" width="300px" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Maybe a bit silly and only a little impractical!</td></tr>
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Right now there seem to be quite a few patterns for capes in the current collections but, as it happens, I used a vintage pattern<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkLpdqcAP3IhWzbzGjKCePljWj2kRo-hK1X1h52zk_JpKZMSkO80yw2ixieiEHK_bf_THRoJ_lnudrpVwpVnCc7zlYfa9-nxnpj0knEFYHSE6fCwyPYJP8JcQcKc02dlWid7hmws7xqHOn/s1600/B2916V+pattern.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400px" kca="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkLpdqcAP3IhWzbzGjKCePljWj2kRo-hK1X1h52zk_JpKZMSkO80yw2ixieiEHK_bf_THRoJ_lnudrpVwpVnCc7zlYfa9-nxnpj0knEFYHSE6fCwyPYJP8JcQcKc02dlWid7hmws7xqHOn/s400/B2916V+pattern.jpg" width="300px" /></a></div><br />
What especially attracted me to this pattern is that it's reversible - two capes for the effort of one! <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">If this wind blows me away, will this cape help me fly?</td></tr>
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Although a cape doesn't really have to fit very closely anywhere I did go to the trouble of making a muslin to get some idea of how this was going to look on me. I'm glad that I did because it made me realise that a long version was going to swamp me and that to look more modern it needed to be quite a bit shorter than the shortest version of this pattern. I also discovered that if the arm slits were longer it would allow a bit more arm movement. I should, perhaps, also mention that at this point my husband looked pretty dubious about the whole cape prospect, muttering that he didn't want to put me off something that I was clearly hell bent on making but he didn't have high hopes for the finished garment.<br />
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I used 100% wool in a dark grey for one side and pale grey for the other. Because I felt it needed a little glamour and cosiness I decided to experiment and make the collar in a white faux fur. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUshurdwrwcm6hjtX5LhokJ-HAChlSefYeiF5uW9a0h83IAD_ZrucaNhZOo7gwxBtDCMhyl4TWxUTDoOyTTPv5Bmf2T1KUNLtA8dsIkF3_nUOEo7mrzanw4gT9TQO2r7RwaGZqIAmkv4-O/s1600/B2916V+032.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300px" kca="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUshurdwrwcm6hjtX5LhokJ-HAChlSefYeiF5uW9a0h83IAD_ZrucaNhZOo7gwxBtDCMhyl4TWxUTDoOyTTPv5Bmf2T1KUNLtA8dsIkF3_nUOEo7mrzanw4gT9TQO2r7RwaGZqIAmkv4-O/s400/B2916V+032.jpg" width="400px" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nothing like a bit of faux fur for glamour!</td></tr>
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Also, I used a metallic silver thread for the topstitching around the front, the hem and the pocket slits. The whole thing was super-easy to make. It only needed two buttonholes at the top, one on either side. These are fastened together by sewing two buttons together with a thread link so it can be buttoned up whichever way round I am wearing it -<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJ5Js-OMrmBr-dYDgDKf0UxnR4kkE99B0NN2b6FCn04ZwIwvzvpMcMWfI0e_GG-du6Jrj5yXNj478z_jTBR8dcWtCeymQ8nnFpuIIvLhb-0VNJjxHOYBH8G-V-n_Bi-0MTzx3lITlYiJS4/s1600/B2916V+instructions.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400px" kca="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJ5Js-OMrmBr-dYDgDKf0UxnR4kkE99B0NN2b6FCn04ZwIwvzvpMcMWfI0e_GG-du6Jrj5yXNj478z_jTBR8dcWtCeymQ8nnFpuIIvLhb-0VNJjxHOYBH8G-V-n_Bi-0MTzx3lITlYiJS4/s400/B2916V+instructions.jpg" width="300px" /></a></div><br />
I went through the construction process with mixed feelings - Fear and Hope. So, what's my final verdict on the cape? Well, I do like the way it turned out. I can also tell you that when my husband saw it finished he looked quite startled and told me that it looked a million times better than he had feared: in fact he really likes it. Since making it I have worn it twice and it is perfect for just throwing on when going out for dinner or to visit friends. I wouldn't, however, choose to wear it for a day of shopping because you can't carry a bag over your shoulder: you have to clasp it in your hand, which is a little restricting. I doubt if I will make another cape but I'm really happy that I have this one and have, finally, got the cape craving out of my system!<br />
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What about you - is a cape a garment that you would ever consider wearing, do you like the look, hate it, or does the sheer impracticality of a cape rule it out for you? I’d love to know ……Eugeniahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07584571701550775408noreply@blogger.com36tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6258632543894619198.post-82816563173256128372011-09-30T08:51:00.000-07:002011-09-30T08:51:16.162-07:00Online fabric shopping - yea or nay?I live in London, a large city that has a wide variety of fabric stores that I love to shop in.<br />
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So, you would think that I would have no need to venture into the world-wide-web to feed my fabric buying habit. But I do buy fabric on the internet. In fact, I buy quite a lot of fabric on the internet.<br />
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Shopping in a real, bricks and mortar, store is, without a doubt, a very enjoyable experience. For me the main advantage of buying fabric this way is the obvious one - you can actually feel the fabric so you can judge how it is going to drape and behave as a garment and you can be certain of the exact colour and texture. And there is, of course, the pleasure of that instant gratification - you walk away with a bag in your hand and your head full of sewing plans for your lovely new fabric. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"I'll just take a quick look in here!"</td></tr>
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However, I think that there can be a downside to shopping in a store. The array of fabrics piled high can be quite overwhelming so that it can be difficult to consider options and decide on the best purchase. When time is limited it is easy, on impulse, to buy something pretty and colourful although you would really be far better off picking out a less flamboyant, but more useful, solid wool. Another problem that I sometimes encounter is the pushy sales assistant. In some stores the assistants will happily leave you alone to browse but in others I have found that from the minute I step through the door I am accompanied by a person who is keen to show me anything and everything they can. As soon as I touch (or even let my eyes linger on) a roll of fabric, the fabric is pulled out, unrolled and its virtues exclaimed upon. In this situation I tend to feel that I have two choices - buy a lot of fabric that I'm not absolutely sure about or flee empty handed. <br />
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When shopping on the internet, although I am denied the opportunity of touching the fabric, I can spend as many hours as I like, at any time of day or night, checking out the stock. Some internet sites, such as <a href="http://www.gorgeousfabrics.com/" target="_blank">Gorgeous Fabrics</a>, and <a href="http://www.voguefabricsstore.com/" target="_blank">Vogue Fabrics</a> (which are two of my favourite sites) have a 'wish list' facility which allows me to gather together fabrics I like on one page. I can then see how they look together. I can get out patterns, think through what fabric will work with what style and I can check exactly how much yardage I will need. I don't have to press the 'buy' button until I'm good and ready.<br />
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Another plus side of internet shopping is that the reputable online stores give you accurate information about the fibre content of the fabric and the recommended care instructions. In real life stores, especially the discount ones, you usually don't get any of this information - the fabric is rarely labelled and the sales assistants can sometimes be, quite frankly, woefully uninformed or wilfully vague.<br />
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Of course, when ordering on the internet you have shipping costs to pay (and possibly customs duties if ordering from abroad) so these have to be factored in when considering the cost of the fabric. And then you have to wait for your fabric to arrive at your door. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7S0Lv4Qk2-jmE7NYXF5b2ImPZubziTBh9u8eG92-vZxs32D6b758BICJprsWuOlOmpOZYWeCGsjTmu7NlqeZZwWuqGjyJDFrv91XzacTlENMEtyIAP0BJJsRJXhTzKsdGGx63XERixdds/s1600/Parcels+Express.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="281px" kca="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7S0Lv4Qk2-jmE7NYXF5b2ImPZubziTBh9u8eG92-vZxs32D6b758BICJprsWuOlOmpOZYWeCGsjTmu7NlqeZZwWuqGjyJDFrv91XzacTlENMEtyIAP0BJJsRJXhTzKsdGGx63XERixdds/s400/Parcels+Express.jpg" width="400px" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"What was it that I ordered ... I seem to have forgotten?"</td></tr>
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However, I don't mind the wait so much because when my parcel does arrive, it's very exciting - it's like getting a present from somebody who has perfect taste and knows exactly what you want! <br />
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So, I enjoy shopping in both real and virtual stores. I guess what I am saying is that I just love to buy fabric! But what about you? Do you like to order on the internet or do you have to feel the fabric before you can commit? I'd love to know ....Eugeniahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07584571701550775408noreply@blogger.com30tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6258632543894619198.post-3056275968001501082011-09-24T07:35:00.000-07:002011-09-24T09:25:11.693-07:00Simplicity 2497 Cynthia Rowley dress!My latest make is what I like to call an easy-to-wear dress in an all-year round print fabric (which, by the way, is a silk twill designed by Phillip Lim).<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRt8unvxb8v6hcfdl2m_NdQjDMCQlkGmPhNyRvVWXMozy5o06sFZfdza5HXGQqchCS6W5PG2Gz0Ptj6UvHu52waIgxnonE1MMhFcJxx7uhJ9K9_JC4dUSLCAY3NoC92aQAoHcg3qCAL3Wp/s1600/S2497+V2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" hca="true" height="400px" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRt8unvxb8v6hcfdl2m_NdQjDMCQlkGmPhNyRvVWXMozy5o06sFZfdza5HXGQqchCS6W5PG2Gz0Ptj6UvHu52waIgxnonE1MMhFcJxx7uhJ9K9_JC4dUSLCAY3NoC92aQAoHcg3qCAL3Wp/s400/S2497+V2.jpg" width="300px" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Simplicity 2497 by Cynthia Rowley</td></tr>
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In the coming months I am planning on wearing it with boots and a cardi but I also have visions of throwing it on with some shiny gold sandals when summer finally returns.<br />
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How this dress came about is interesting. I didn't feel like fitting a new pattern so thought I would rummage through my very large box of patterns that I have made previously to see if something caught my eye to make again. As I went through them I was saying "No, not that one, not that one, never that one ....... oh, hang on a minute, what was that?" I backtracked to take another look at this pattern<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjV-ulNV_QZhosAgskZ8De3IbQhmQgY8Iuwnb6U7ax_N5iK6CiLIZUSp8KObLEeAxB7H1WVHt5P46Ga3QvYnJRvF2KCwBw6xWrtri7yTmpfsBj4tfvZyVHvJP_67ZWcRIWsto0RqZidRQqE/s1600/Simplicity+2497.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" hca="true" height="400px" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjV-ulNV_QZhosAgskZ8De3IbQhmQgY8Iuwnb6U7ax_N5iK6CiLIZUSp8KObLEeAxB7H1WVHt5P46Ga3QvYnJRvF2KCwBw6xWrtri7yTmpfsBj4tfvZyVHvJP_67ZWcRIWsto0RqZidRQqE/s400/Simplicity+2497.jpg" width="277px" /></a></div><br />
I made the dress with the ruffle on it almost two years ago (blogged about <a href="http://theworldofeugenia.blogspot.com/2009/10/little-trauma-with-cynthia-rowley-for.html" target="_blank">here</a>). I do love the dress but I didn't feel the need for another one, especially as it is rather low cut (even after I raised the neckline!). There is a limit to the number of places I go to that require a ruffley low cut dress. However, until last week, I had completely overlooked the fact that there is another view for this dress (shown in the bottom row of the line drawings on the pattern envelope). Instead of the ruffle it has a faced neckband, which means the neckline is at a higher, more respectable level. I decided that this version, but without the puffy sleeves, would be exactly right for my nice designer print.<br />
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When it was almost done I got the feeling that the dress needed just a little something extra to give it a bit of punch and a more 'finished' look. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8g9EZ84olmf4oWyaO3R0QRipTy_xun0IcVCuuxY-MLae1hAJeM0pSFjQEIfX-2NBGCn0-McCn_8zYxdSVd9GMddO3v2h3TGqzibcTKsyxjh1MGcoruccmmv9eVhtRPLEWz0rE0FC7CVKd/s1600/S2497+v2+unfinished.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" hca="true" height="400px" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8g9EZ84olmf4oWyaO3R0QRipTy_xun0IcVCuuxY-MLae1hAJeM0pSFjQEIfX-2NBGCn0-McCn_8zYxdSVd9GMddO3v2h3TGqzibcTKsyxjh1MGcoruccmmv9eVhtRPLEWz0rE0FC7CVKd/s400/S2497+v2+unfinished.jpg" width="300px" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"It needs a little something!"</td></tr>
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I was thinking of doing some topstitching in heavy black thread around the neckband when I remembered that I had some sew-on jewels in my stash. I purchased these a long time ago for nothing in particular but I felt that one day they would be 'the perfect thing' for something. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_ga9vFQurL2Vg2zXXUY1QO6zjNNg2pH6UBcDLBFag38VduADWCemjy9el64df7xfskccLoyS_rUIvmTeH9ekl9ycX5GT8b-q7MDOLrqz6l-4_WtzWOOKcZv-I1eTfyXVDyGoi2UWWIh2s/s1600/S2497+V2+close+up.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" hca="true" height="300px" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_ga9vFQurL2Vg2zXXUY1QO6zjNNg2pH6UBcDLBFag38VduADWCemjy9el64df7xfskccLoyS_rUIvmTeH9ekl9ycX5GT8b-q7MDOLrqz6l-4_WtzWOOKcZv-I1eTfyXVDyGoi2UWWIh2s/s400/S2497+V2+close+up.jpg" width="400px" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Just the thing - a little bling around the neckline!</td></tr>
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So, my tip of the week is this. Don't forget to take a close look at your pattern stash - sometimes you might be surprised to see that a pattern you had dismissed has got another view sitting, unassumingly, in the corner just waiting for you to notice it and turn it into a dress you really like!Eugeniahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07584571701550775408noreply@blogger.com118tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6258632543894619198.post-52017085885298539612011-09-16T05:27:00.000-07:002011-09-16T05:27:58.168-07:00Vintage Simplicity 4175 finished!In my last post I mentioned that I have been working on a dress made from a vintage Simplicity pattern so, without further ado, here it is, finished!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXEJc3Ew_0mX9e6aPFTsNGd5XBTVmyrcMHqDZoRip-lZfxqRcL2QsOdBlUsDN5hNawQmrR9qZqA7qzQHjh62K9gX-TlsLwVXOJvfIKJToHvrbtd-u8358m8pLDyM09drpBKpXFKZxFMImh/s1600/S4175V+017.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400px" rba="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXEJc3Ew_0mX9e6aPFTsNGd5XBTVmyrcMHqDZoRip-lZfxqRcL2QsOdBlUsDN5hNawQmrR9qZqA7qzQHjh62K9gX-TlsLwVXOJvfIKJToHvrbtd-u8358m8pLDyM09drpBKpXFKZxFMImh/s400/S4175V+017.jpg" width="300px" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vintage Simplicity 4175</td></tr>
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I used a Liberty of London silk fabric. The busy flower print makes it a little difficult to see all the details in a photograph so here’s how Simplicity describes it:<br />
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This “Simple to Make” dress is styled with soft pleats at the shoulder and at waistline of skirt front. A forward shoulder seam is featured and both views are sleeveless.<br />
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The pattern envelope is a bit worn and torn but the pattern pieces were in perfect condition.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_8w5Cjp4v3Dwo1BqgR3vjmOjxx2fbnbY0TS0qIRHfmG0fSJdmnT5PfCY5gewve7X1qrBFQzh73-sgzQChQs68q2Zksr-Uv6OAg_B0sTXVLuvo_9C2D56Wx-rgP4KbjA1QhoIp1mf2OVfD/s1600/S4175V+pattern.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400px" rba="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_8w5Cjp4v3Dwo1BqgR3vjmOjxx2fbnbY0TS0qIRHfmG0fSJdmnT5PfCY5gewve7X1qrBFQzh73-sgzQChQs68q2Zksr-Uv6OAg_B0sTXVLuvo_9C2D56Wx-rgP4KbjA1QhoIp1mf2OVfD/s400/S4175V+pattern.jpg" width="300px" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">No, my bust isn't 32" - this needed some grading up!</td></tr>
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When I first started on this project I thought that I would make the view on the left with the tie at the neckline. However, as the work progressed, it became clear to me that a bow on top of everything else going on with this dress was going to be just a bit more than my short frame could carry. But, of course, I did put the buttons down the front.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieiOiq64r1BMII7xrWXSId0KfUAUORTDO5mBoXEw-V9aJWEe2GKgOu9KISdrFxwjGbWkiDi0SiiqqGdGHBp6Of0hZ9tl5amzGVQyJ_W8WlMxwDciRO6sV1fJrARoUh5mTnvxRh6LmeGvTw/s1600/S4175V+bodice.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400px" rba="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieiOiq64r1BMII7xrWXSId0KfUAUORTDO5mBoXEw-V9aJWEe2GKgOu9KISdrFxwjGbWkiDi0SiiqqGdGHBp6Of0hZ9tl5amzGVQyJ_W8WlMxwDciRO6sV1fJrARoUh5mTnvxRh6LmeGvTw/s400/S4175V+bodice.jpg" width="300px" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Yes, that's 12 buttons!</td></tr>
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These are also vintage (I blogged about their purchase <a href="http://theworldofeugenia.blogspot.com/2011/06/is-it-crime-to-actually-use-vintage.html" target="_blank">here</a>) and they are purely decorative. The pattern instructions tell you to use a lapped zipper or snap fasteners for the side opening but I used an invisible zipper. As is often the case with vintage patterns the armholes are supposed to be faced. However, as I was suspicious that the facings would flip out and annoy me, I decided to bind the armholes with bias strips from the dress fabric. Another change I made was to add a lining to the skirt. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGaxI1dyZYuaLys1L-PrFQrd6OOHzs3wmfyvyBzMHt9oiYbiD0bT_Kutib76U7T6nhp7ePh2PRKxvxIe7uA6GTrPZh-vlq2aewBQ0Kp6UrZ1Nhyphenhyphen1kZLXmaY3hHFJVEB-pCOoYMrD0UC1XJ/s1600/S4175V+inside.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400px" rba="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGaxI1dyZYuaLys1L-PrFQrd6OOHzs3wmfyvyBzMHt9oiYbiD0bT_Kutib76U7T6nhp7ePh2PRKxvxIe7uA6GTrPZh-vlq2aewBQ0Kp6UrZ1Nhyphenhyphen1kZLXmaY3hHFJVEB-pCOoYMrD0UC1XJ/s400/S4175V+inside.jpg" width="300px" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Inside the dress - the skirt is lined</td></tr>
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The unlined silk worked beautifully for the bodice because it needs a soft fabric for the pleats to drape nicely but I wanted the skirt part to be a little more robust. I think it worked well. Also, as you may have noticed, I chopped a good few inches off the length.<br />
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One design feature of the pattern that I did stick to is the self-made matching belt. This was my first attempt at belt making and I must credit Casey from Elegant Musings for her very excellent <a href="http://blog.caseybrowndesigns.com/2011/03/beltmaking-101/" target="_blank">tutorial</a> which helped me enormously. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKL4MGTWBQUW0GRXysltOxAcRt8LRmOJPqnp_bE9W5VcsyIzasEAaFuG-9X5PFm27_zS_dWt4ZVD6aK0u8ZJg8JliP43WKIAF7hEbHlMjDiBeOXvBAFJc_90eaMzbiVk7uA1AqWD3dyuBE/s1600/S4175V+belt.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240px" rba="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKL4MGTWBQUW0GRXysltOxAcRt8LRmOJPqnp_bE9W5VcsyIzasEAaFuG-9X5PFm27_zS_dWt4ZVD6aK0u8ZJg8JliP43WKIAF7hEbHlMjDiBeOXvBAFJc_90eaMzbiVk7uA1AqWD3dyuBE/s320/S4175V+belt.jpg" width="320px" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fabric belt made with purchased buckle</td></tr>
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So, although I think my 1952 dress is in keeping with the intended style I have to confess that it is not perfectly authentic because I have given it a few modern updates in the construction – I hope you don’t find that too shocking? I enjoyed working with this pattern and love many of the styles from past eras. I do plan to make some more vintage patterns but I could never see myself going exclusively vintage - I am way too tempted by the latest fashions and relative ease of use of the modern, multi-sized patterns. How about you? Is vintage your thing or is it the 21st century all the way for you?Eugeniahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07584571701550775408noreply@blogger.com53tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6258632543894619198.post-31803557731658765642011-09-08T07:08:00.000-07:002011-09-08T07:08:09.487-07:00Still hanging on to summer ....The weather has turned blustery, the days are getting shorter. The blogosphere is buzzing with plans for fall sewing. And what am I doing? I am looking at my large pile of summer fabrics. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhizCCD2ouE2-deKthfeEWr7Ny_YguqqtJKi700DgxTEx75ad5JoY8TScC4ynH3bbssowi_5QQjENAWnjQbag0is2S0W5s_p_8v70CDTgNdSYmJ6zi5V5p0BPMTEe_QQg-DAqb1r9f1dvJA/s1600/summer+fabrics+004.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300px" nba="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhizCCD2ouE2-deKthfeEWr7Ny_YguqqtJKi700DgxTEx75ad5JoY8TScC4ynH3bbssowi_5QQjENAWnjQbag0is2S0W5s_p_8v70CDTgNdSYmJ6zi5V5p0BPMTEe_QQg-DAqb1r9f1dvJA/s400/summer+fabrics+004.jpg" width="400px" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Did I really buy all this fabric?</td></tr>
</tbody></table> <br />
Where is that sassy sundress I was going to make? What happened to the cute shorts? Why haven't I made those luxurious loose linen pants I decided on? How come I never made ..... oh, never mind. So many patterns, so much fabric, too little time!<br />
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As I am not quite ready to plunge straight into winter wools I am working on what I am calling a transitional piece. Here's a sneak peak<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikxPdU1TwVYbjIv7hCHUNy_GxZ8u8fnU_nBYEyVdWJy6GHf0tmUGlyGz0YN7lElthPJN78reHvU-Mv6M0N-YlV7_ZQTeOgsmUGTOsVW5gy110egBAoiDyEYKozGG_UqArj2NpQvJXciqoU/s1600/S4175V+001.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300px" nba="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikxPdU1TwVYbjIv7hCHUNy_GxZ8u8fnU_nBYEyVdWJy6GHf0tmUGlyGz0YN7lElthPJN78reHvU-Mv6M0N-YlV7_ZQTeOgsmUGTOsVW5gy110egBAoiDyEYKozGG_UqArj2NpQvJXciqoU/s400/S4175V+001.jpg" width="400px" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Eugenia goes vintage!</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
I am feeling pretty excited about this one. The pattern is dated 1952, the buttons are also vintage and the fabric is a Liberty of London pure silk (purchased in the sale but still at great expense!)<br />
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Although it could very obviously be worn as a 'summer frock' (and I am still hoping for an Indian summer), I think that the subdued colours will allow me to wear it as a fall outfit paired with my black boots and a little cardi.<br />
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What about you? Did you actually get to make all the wonderful garments you planned for the summer? Are you sitting there feeling, dare I say it, rather smug as you move on to the new season. Or, like me, are you sadly staring at a huge pile of unsewn fabrics and wistfully thinking of all the clothes you should now have hanging in your wardrobe? I’d love to know …..Eugeniahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07584571701550775408noreply@blogger.com36tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6258632543894619198.post-25563343144500789792011-09-02T10:47:00.000-07:002011-09-02T10:47:49.408-07:00Vogue 8603 and how a zebra wears her stripes!My latest make is one of those great wardrobe staples - a pencil skirt made in an animal print. Classic styling in a fun fabric.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjm7lOZbrEad-h5hOVm5AtniHixUNQIxZNMzGHK8yyxN77VknpbiCT_8x0o_QimpLOC0-rPj2HiqGIqVJufLZ13yGVdWuoBmwi4wO-C4HmB_yoMGZcB32tJUqr_8OwbAJxUDZaSEe72xhfB/s1600/V8603+V2+016.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400px" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjm7lOZbrEad-h5hOVm5AtniHixUNQIxZNMzGHK8yyxN77VknpbiCT_8x0o_QimpLOC0-rPj2HiqGIqVJufLZ13yGVdWuoBmwi4wO-C4HmB_yoMGZcB32tJUqr_8OwbAJxUDZaSEe72xhfB/s400/V8603+V2+016.jpg" width="300px" xaa="true" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Zebra print pencil skirt</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
The pattern is Vogue 8603 - for a variety of lined, straight skirts with princess seams and a back zipper. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLns_Mi1OLxedNpgRyZUiMR0wKtoQY4PNq0M61IfTPw8GLnPr7D_7xaiRNEuQ2Hi6Hmk_WfAunDYFOlFlNuBrl1RGEeOyBrO92D0MW4UfsND8hkQ_gWs2EW_mltlPP5CbXMYLcfPj64lwx/s1600/V8603+-+pattern.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320px" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLns_Mi1OLxedNpgRyZUiMR0wKtoQY4PNq0M61IfTPw8GLnPr7D_7xaiRNEuQ2Hi6Hmk_WfAunDYFOlFlNuBrl1RGEeOyBrO92D0MW4UfsND8hkQ_gWs2EW_mltlPP5CbXMYLcfPj64lwx/s320/V8603+-+pattern.jpg" width="303px" xaa="true" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vogue 8603</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
The version I made has a gathered panel at the bottom of the centre back (which isn't shown in the picture above). <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhthit81irLEE8oaJCgDpG2tVoLoLD-nH1-sBxf02RKMz1FSrSM7uENdFAqk_hZusRnq98whf-MMJS7ox6l9X_lPPo8h6e6HzB2SnaDni9Nd7F3fundBrXqrGUAxqWvu20jDnwUWJxXUvhr/s1600/V8603+V2+inside.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400px" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhthit81irLEE8oaJCgDpG2tVoLoLD-nH1-sBxf02RKMz1FSrSM7uENdFAqk_hZusRnq98whf-MMJS7ox6l9X_lPPo8h6e6HzB2SnaDni9Nd7F3fundBrXqrGUAxqWvu20jDnwUWJxXUvhr/s400/V8603+V2+inside.jpg" width="300px" xaa="true" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Inside the skirt - the back</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
I have made this pattern before in plain black (blogged about <a href="http://theworldofeugenia.blogspot.com/2010/11/vogue-classic-pencil-skirt-finished.html" target="_blank">here</a>) and really like the fit, so when I purchased this zebra print cotton fabric I knew straight away what I wanted to do with it.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUAMU8aeF7zSgrwgi63c8FAZ9O9TKbObL7Jq1A12pGrr3vhVUMUJP0EotZvXmIdW0-hOpKMLm6zEI54-N4M1ZtSd0tcuOb8-1r4gvE-9GGxoq350rTSjA-koeuUzXc9By6ytDt-nOriCeb/s1600/zebra+fabric+001.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240px" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUAMU8aeF7zSgrwgi63c8FAZ9O9TKbObL7Jq1A12pGrr3vhVUMUJP0EotZvXmIdW0-hOpKMLm6zEI54-N4M1ZtSd0tcuOb8-1r4gvE-9GGxoq350rTSjA-koeuUzXc9By6ytDt-nOriCeb/s320/zebra+fabric+001.jpg" width="320px" xaa="true" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Zebra stripes run from selvedge to selvedge</td></tr>
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It was only when I came to cut the fabric that it dawned on me that if I cut the skirt on the lengthwise grain (in the usual way) the zebra stripes would run horizontally around my body. Now I'm not a great stickler for those rules that dictate what different body types should wear but I have to admit that, as I am short, I do tend to find that horizontal stripes, especially on a skirt, have the effect of making me look shorter and wider than I want to look. <br />
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Out of interest I thought that I would check out which way a zebra wears her stripes. It turns out that she wears them vertically at the front and horizontally at the back.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1hMnB4KNubulcTvt_9IUIw1UNr3ipLYXEcEoMLVmUkourN5C3uzHpa6Ku9I9zCZ4iktFPabcHBItlLhekX2NBdlqC3c30NpON16wJ0jsS23HXj-c3MGUgSuqLvZ0NIgJ4vJuACaSIyvC3/s1600/zebra.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="271px" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1hMnB4KNubulcTvt_9IUIw1UNr3ipLYXEcEoMLVmUkourN5C3uzHpa6Ku9I9zCZ4iktFPabcHBItlLhekX2NBdlqC3c30NpON16wJ0jsS23HXj-c3MGUgSuqLvZ0NIgJ4vJuACaSIyvC3/s400/zebra.jpg" width="400px" xaa="true" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tell me honestly, does my butt look big in this?</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
So she looks taller at the front, but wider at the back. However, I doubt very much whether zebras waste much time worrying about body image, they have more pressing things, like not getting eaten by a lion, to worry about. <br />
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So, anyway, I decided to cut my skirt on the crosswise grain and wear my stripes vertically - I'm trying for tall and thin! What about you - which way do you like to wear your stripes. Do you think it makes any difference? Do you care?<br />
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Eugeniahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07584571701550775408noreply@blogger.com38tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6258632543894619198.post-57464323277147460992011-08-28T10:09:00.000-07:002011-08-28T10:09:31.363-07:00How I get an invisible zipper looking neat at the top!I know I have mentioned this before, but I hate hooks and eyes. They are pesky little things to be avoided at (almost) all costs. Usually I just leave them off and nothing terrible happens - my garments don't inconveniently unzip themselves! However, doing this does mean that you can sometimes get a little (or large!) ‘V’ shape at the top of the zipper where the opening doesn't quite close. In a tireless quest for perfection I have been working on ways to avoid this. <br />
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You might remember that the last dress I made (featured in my <a href="http://theworldofeugenia.blogspot.com/2011/08/vogue-8555-made-from-oscar-de-la-renta.html">last post</a>) has a low back neckline so the zipper closing is very visible. But, if I say so myself, I think I was quite successful in getting it to look acceptable without having to resort to a hook and eye.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhW7fpuI4ogNo6QPw0j9zuNNGVGOGHghApzOmq-r9WS3n_hLAVSPuG0htqCXJvzOlxi7WmBNCDvPf7Wsx3exYEmp6_jw1aL1iLhvVuZWtdNQVR1l_izQXpIc9-8n8TOvyj8A9IsBbNfsa3G/s1600/V8555+zipper+close+up.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400px" qaa="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhW7fpuI4ogNo6QPw0j9zuNNGVGOGHghApzOmq-r9WS3n_hLAVSPuG0htqCXJvzOlxi7WmBNCDvPf7Wsx3exYEmp6_jw1aL1iLhvVuZWtdNQVR1l_izQXpIc9-8n8TOvyj8A9IsBbNfsa3G/s400/V8555+zipper+close+up.jpg" width="326px" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Close-up of back zipper</td></tr>
</tbody></table> <br />
As it is a rainy bank holiday Sunday and I am nursing a miserable cold I thought I would occupy myself by sharing my secret technique with you. Firstly, however, a warning! I have never seen it done this way in a book so it is probably VERY WRONG. If you want to do things properly, maybe you shouldn't try this. <br />
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As I didn't take photos when I made my dress, I have made, from scrap fabrics, a mock-up of one side of a back bodice to illustrate what I am talking about.<br />
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At the back of the zipper, with the zipper closed, put a chalk mark on the zipper tape where the top of the slider finishes.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9MdB2IcdTSXmLnWgnvE1TILB9mPdREkaqdfidCG6LTCOTy9sfL9BU9c2i9Cb8TY4vRt6Dm4E6Dso5h8V7omE9BwwPanKhwo9rU4xeLXt6dH5WnPlnJSEBy1nC0IRfOVvzJ3PJNcJprSEs/s1600/zipper+insertion+001.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320px" qaa="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9MdB2IcdTSXmLnWgnvE1TILB9mPdREkaqdfidCG6LTCOTy9sfL9BU9c2i9Cb8TY4vRt6Dm4E6Dso5h8V7omE9BwwPanKhwo9rU4xeLXt6dH5WnPlnJSEBy1nC0IRfOVvzJ3PJNcJprSEs/s320/zipper+insertion+001.jpg" width="239px" /></a></div><br />
Open the zipper and pin it to the right side of the back bodice, in the usual way, so that the zipper teeth are along the centre back seam line and the chalk mark you have made is just below the seam line of the neckline. How much below depends on the thickness of the fabric - if it is thin 1/8" will be ok, thicker fabric needs about 1/4" - you are allowing for the turn of the fabric.<br />
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If you are making a dress with an edge to edge lining that has already been attached it will be placed below the already sewn neckline seam that joins the bodice and the lining. If you are going to be attaching a facing after inserting the zipper it will look like this photo, (I have chalk marked the seam-line for the purposes of clarity - I wouldn't normally do this.)<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpJ1Mh8Pdrmr1Va8jYwQmGT8wsg-K-zJvnmgFSyK8NhA784NnGlxIeM7kzzMklpSrW_iXlnT4ePOkxLWLSmtxgJ5SxaY0xDAYF6HZmESyT7zqcSgKs1Xfpmb9rIdyrG1oEbLuLeiAM0xx-/s1600/zipper+insertion+007.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320px" qaa="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpJ1Mh8Pdrmr1Va8jYwQmGT8wsg-K-zJvnmgFSyK8NhA784NnGlxIeM7kzzMklpSrW_iXlnT4ePOkxLWLSmtxgJ5SxaY0xDAYF6HZmESyT7zqcSgKs1Xfpmb9rIdyrG1oEbLuLeiAM0xx-/s320/zipper+insertion+007.jpg" width="239px" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Start sewing from chalk mark on zipper tape</td></tr>
</tbody></table>Sew the zipper in the usual way, with an invisible zipper foot, But DON'T start sewing from the top of the zipper tape (which is how books usually demonstrate it is done). Instead you should start sewing from the chalk mark down to the end (I use the lockstitch on my machine at the start point). Do the same on both sides. <br />
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The top of the zipper tape, above the slider, will be loose. Then, if you are attaching a facing, you should pull the tape out of the way and sew the facing to the bodice WITHOUT sandwiching the zipper i.e. like this (pretend the yellow fabric is the facing)<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEEwITufn_8Nfzy34nvGtvJKKEz0_G0PHvRKQMhCEZSm8d1I-DRd-87Te05mLmF9CP33W2dQjxxG53AjfVu-Fs0659L4S-p43fUmWv3TXNoj0tINNxP3OXIAMlb12DdlU3LgGn-ud8d9EM/s1600/zipper+insertion+019.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320px" qaa="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEEwITufn_8Nfzy34nvGtvJKKEz0_G0PHvRKQMhCEZSm8d1I-DRd-87Te05mLmF9CP33W2dQjxxG53AjfVu-Fs0659L4S-p43fUmWv3TXNoj0tINNxP3OXIAMlb12DdlU3LgGn-ud8d9EM/s320/zipper+insertion+019.jpg" width="239px" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">DO sew zipper like this</td></tr>
</tbody></table>and NOT like this. <br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEhhHaHJRmgmEVbEToVTbrohL9pBJP3twFRJvWQaSgm3YYVjq1G84M1ZdXBa4VboAWWDKdfcNQcinGjGoxowVNAPv8hGVLI-AgODZZFZjsF6LUIfEjbArWmhIj3LPpwY0hiZRAqij-R6AP/s1600/zipper+insertion+024.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320px" qaa="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEhhHaHJRmgmEVbEToVTbrohL9pBJP3twFRJvWQaSgm3YYVjq1G84M1ZdXBa4VboAWWDKdfcNQcinGjGoxowVNAPv8hGVLI-AgODZZFZjsF6LUIfEjbArWmhIj3LPpwY0hiZRAqij-R6AP/s320/zipper+insertion+024.jpg" width="239px" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">DON'T sew zipper like this</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
Leaving the top of the zipper tape free means that when you close the zipper and sew the lining or facing to the zipper you can pull the bits of the zipper tape that are above the slider well inside the garment and out of the way. I find that this way it is easier to get it looking neat, it helps avoid nasty lumps and you can get much less of a ‘V’ at the top of the opening. <br />
<br />
After much experimentation this is my preferred (if unorthodox!) way of dealing with invisible zippers. It works for me on skirts as well as dresses. I hope that you find it helpful to see how I do it.<br />
<br />
Do you have a tried and tested way of getting invisible zippers to look how you want or do you struggle with them? I'd love to know .......<br />
<br />
Eugeniahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07584571701550775408noreply@blogger.com237tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6258632543894619198.post-58628529543768710382011-08-19T06:08:00.000-07:002011-08-19T06:08:41.512-07:00Vogue 8555 made from Oscar de la Renta fabric!I wanted to make a new dress to go to the Proms - something pretty and flowery, but a little bit sophisticated, would be just right for a classical concert on a summer evening. Some beautiful silk fabric, designed by Oscar de la Renta, jumped from my stash saying "make me into Vogue 8555". So I did.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEjS4Enzvxp9cwKKqS4ixUVN5llDvLXJqayfucflBh6wEyQo-ULnFCxtWeYgzgmwm2JPwz_y88gejHJt4jDvpyxIisgL-fa6FwLViGzHm-__Pryye6KD75UUjxfHoUm2xH5WT18DY2eYZN/s1600/V8555+V2+015.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400px" qaa="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEjS4Enzvxp9cwKKqS4ixUVN5llDvLXJqayfucflBh6wEyQo-ULnFCxtWeYgzgmwm2JPwz_y88gejHJt4jDvpyxIisgL-fa6FwLViGzHm-__Pryye6KD75UUjxfHoUm2xH5WT18DY2eYZN/s400/V8555+V2+015.jpg" width="300px" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vogue + Oscar!</td></tr>
</tbody></table> <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSKSO7qfSeC8Pd9ap2n7r2EsfP15lqxNnVU7w_ZtbtOEt4K1oZ5tn4m-C4Wv5K-SSnw2cSopGAPVwDejo0SRKnMHeZE0yUvqW8Wl6mnvMWZG4yvL1scbmkTIk5v_rWBS9V9s7f_IEFsanK/s1600/V8555+V2+back+view.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400px" qaa="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSKSO7qfSeC8Pd9ap2n7r2EsfP15lqxNnVU7w_ZtbtOEt4K1oZ5tn4m-C4Wv5K-SSnw2cSopGAPVwDejo0SRKnMHeZE0yUvqW8Wl6mnvMWZG4yvL1scbmkTIk5v_rWBS9V9s7f_IEFsanK/s400/V8555+V2+back+view.jpg" width="300px" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I like the low back neckline!</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
This is my second version of this pattern, I love the pleated and gathered bodice.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiadET5UGaQFO3ATjuyEcCeNZLYla1-N-XaGhSiP2pZA-Q0q5x7ic_-TWFgVBw_P3bx0bL-jS9zkONrNdQTL-4HXhFJ7tPciJHLiI9U9O0XyWeGRNSkby9m3H6mah5meW_RgidUFUww6Vg2/s1600/V8555+-+pattern.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="235px" qaa="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiadET5UGaQFO3ATjuyEcCeNZLYla1-N-XaGhSiP2pZA-Q0q5x7ic_-TWFgVBw_P3bx0bL-jS9zkONrNdQTL-4HXhFJ7tPciJHLiI9U9O0XyWeGRNSkby9m3H6mah5meW_RgidUFUww6Vg2/s320/V8555+-+pattern.jpg" width="320px" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vogue 8555</td></tr>
</tbody></table>I have worn the first one (blogged about <a href="http://theworldofeugenia.blogspot.com/2010/06/vogue-8555-sleek-sheath-dress.html" target="_blank">here</a>) many times, so I was keen to make another. It also meant that I wouldn't be taking too many risks with my expensive piece of designer fabric!<br />
<br />
Last time I followed the pattern instructions exactly but I wasn't entirely happy with the zipper/lining construction, I thought it looked a little messy inside the dress. The pattern tells you to sew the zipper to both the fabric and the lining at the same time so that the zipper is outside of the lining. This time I did it differently. When I attached the lining to the dress I left a few inches of the lining for the bodice, the midriff and the skirt at the centre back unattached. I inserted the invisible zipper to the outer fabric only, then hand stitched the lining so that it enclosed the zipper. It is a bit fiddly but I think that it looks much neater if you do it this way. <br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiK00VjMY3gZ9Zr2spCvcye7FwUjjsSTahRDm6AHDtsNN4-KVYwhcEqVoRC2fCwB0IdzGUNrbgPZGdjv7yye5lu_jH_zmCNNYgTljIckGELDvQmHCzpoXJhMAKTi3202SWlUKtU5fgAhmb2/s1600/V8555+lining+002.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320px" qaa="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiK00VjMY3gZ9Zr2spCvcye7FwUjjsSTahRDm6AHDtsNN4-KVYwhcEqVoRC2fCwB0IdzGUNrbgPZGdjv7yye5lu_jH_zmCNNYgTljIckGELDvQmHCzpoXJhMAKTi3202SWlUKtU5fgAhmb2/s320/V8555+lining+002.jpg" width="239px" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Inside the dress</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
Anyway, here is the dress in action at the Royal Albert Hall, in Kensington, where the Proms concerts are held<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQ2FXA5MPAw_Q0LiKU7lTbBz5tJblrL42xrlhbKugXsVR2npDLRyZBK8pofgfDRBAOg-Rac8OocqkhCB5o9liH2cE4_29AHtGX6h_VD2g0UTMuG2CQbHrPHbfP0Ykfz-yyhcLK2ApcUEx6/s1600/V8555+V2+at+Proms.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400px" qaa="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQ2FXA5MPAw_Q0LiKU7lTbBz5tJblrL42xrlhbKugXsVR2npDLRyZBK8pofgfDRBAOg-Rac8OocqkhCB5o9liH2cE4_29AHtGX6h_VD2g0UTMuG2CQbHrPHbfP0Ykfz-yyhcLK2ApcUEx6/s400/V8555+V2+at+Proms.jpg" width="300px" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Arriving at the Royal Albert Hall</td></tr>
</tbody></table> <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAqiSZZZL3CV-_9UuNhyphenhyphenvVhCx0wEQjocFg7FCs0i0Ajs_IckJ3sTIfGOm2CRWgwJ8AG0r5GWEuTjqzSZ7m6c88pCRoFcaJsGKb1Z_q4ZWHLbeS_qoOoIy_wZ28P65KNsRq8AJnNUj43g24/s1600/V8555+V2+Albert+Memorial.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400px" qaa="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAqiSZZZL3CV-_9UuNhyphenhyphenvVhCx0wEQjocFg7FCs0i0Ajs_IckJ3sTIfGOm2CRWgwJ8AG0r5GWEuTjqzSZ7m6c88pCRoFcaJsGKb1Z_q4ZWHLbeS_qoOoIy_wZ28P65KNsRq8AJnNUj43g24/s400/V8555+V2+Albert+Memorial.jpg" width="300px" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">In front of Kensington Gardens and the Albert Memorial</td></tr>
</tbody></table> <br />
I'm hoping that Oscar would approve of what I've done with his fabric!<br />
<br />
Eugeniahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07584571701550775408noreply@blogger.com50tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6258632543894619198.post-23200716533796281952011-08-15T03:48:00.000-07:002011-08-15T03:48:58.860-07:00When wearing ill-fitting clothes really is a crime!I want to say thank you to all of the very kind commenters who, after my last post, expressed concern for my safety during the riots that we experienced in London and other parts of England last week. <br />
<br />
I am happy to tell you that the riots didn't reach my street although last Tuesday afternoon it was very strange to see our local high street heavily guarded by police. A large proportion of the stores were closed throughout the afternoon and many were protected by iron shutters or boarded up. Thankfully, things returned to normal the next day.<br />
<br />
So far 1,401 people have been arrested and 808 charged in connection with the riots. Amongst them was a young man, aged 17, apprehended wearing luxury clothing stolen from a store called Zee and Co, in east London. How was his crime detected? Police were suspicious when they noticed that his pricey designer clothes didn't fit him. "They were very expensive and if someone spends that sort of money they would at least get clothes that fit" noted a prosecuting lawyer. (Reported by Tom Coghlan in today's The Times).<br />
<br />
So, this young man is happy to walk around looking a complete idiot in ill-fitting clothes just as long as they have the right designer label. Priceless!<br />
<br />
My advice to him would be, learn to sew. It will keep you out of trouble and you will then be able to wear clothes that fit, make you look good and keep you out of jail!<br />
<br />
Anyway, as every post needs a picture, here is a photograph of my very own brush with law and order. Actually I mean Law & Order<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg04o9PS3-_myP4GC45NQk6K4bRSiPm-tV2SblHU0PEd4OpA_SzlSh7JIiQTyHZ3PLsCEHk59gTqkWxOe4uBYgKABsyyWdMTzkH6fyhIUOnl19CA7y0hWcmyvw4opGALRhfVRgxsdjSNnPE/s1600/L%2526O.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400px" naa="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg04o9PS3-_myP4GC45NQk6K4bRSiPm-tV2SblHU0PEd4OpA_SzlSh7JIiQTyHZ3PLsCEHk59gTqkWxOe4uBYgKABsyyWdMTzkH6fyhIUOnl19CA7y0hWcmyvw4opGALRhfVRgxsdjSNnPE/s400/L%2526O.jpg" width="285px" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Eugenia at the desk of ADA John J. McCoy!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>This was taken a few years ago when I was lucky enough to visit the filming of my very favourite crime show, in New York City. Pretty cool eh? <br />
Eugeniahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07584571701550775408noreply@blogger.com20tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6258632543894619198.post-34105087412338008362011-08-09T09:23:00.000-07:002011-08-09T09:23:18.785-07:00Burda Style skirt + top = tropical madness!For approximately 360 days of the year my latest sewn outfit looks crazily optimistic when worn in my home city of London. But last week we just happened on a few 'heatwave' days that made me glad I hadn't totally lost faith in the sun ever shining on us again.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjztS0ZnLj6_XNxTRnugmjeGI8Nrf1SX09HINO7bCY2MFDzKRc-lc0FdXW9miBZjhATNva4i9F-mMGcgxBSas_kTcGc8zRAtsTgUgXA7SWDrKqHeHzyPJrAx-SUt85zUJtoUCdUrWZgW7qU/s1600/Burda+Skirt+%252B+Burda+Top+002.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400px" naa="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjztS0ZnLj6_XNxTRnugmjeGI8Nrf1SX09HINO7bCY2MFDzKRc-lc0FdXW9miBZjhATNva4i9F-mMGcgxBSas_kTcGc8zRAtsTgUgXA7SWDrKqHeHzyPJrAx-SUt85zUJtoUCdUrWZgW7qU/s400/Burda+Skirt+%252B+Burda+Top+002.jpg" width="300px" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I'll have a Tequila Sunrise please!</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
Both the skirt and top are made from Burda Style magazine patterns that are easy to make. The skirt is pattern no. 114 from July 2008. <br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgA1PjJmzeQS1R9L5kOqP-c2GCRwRChDYBbYgKak0TwbJ1tbLUgAgrOChy9hiLM-MQCLGrMdIKVDlMoZgegRWf3eCKR9B_VP_lzSknxqVharAmDzNAAOSfUh2RmJ-5wYhyYbT8rzV9bikeu/s1600/BWOF+7-2008-114+drawing.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="171px" naa="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgA1PjJmzeQS1R9L5kOqP-c2GCRwRChDYBbYgKak0TwbJ1tbLUgAgrOChy9hiLM-MQCLGrMdIKVDlMoZgegRWf3eCKR9B_VP_lzSknxqVharAmDzNAAOSfUh2RmJ-5wYhyYbT8rzV9bikeu/s200/BWOF+7-2008-114+drawing.jpg" width="200px" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Burda Style #114, July 2008</td></tr>
</tbody></table>I have made the pattern before (blogged about <a href="http://theworldofeugenia.blogspot.com/2011/03/first-skirt-of-spring.html" target="_blank">here</a>) but this time I left out the eyelets and tie on the front yoke because I wanted a slightly more streamlined, less sporty look (and, yes, I was being lazy!). The fabric I used is 100% cotton.<br />
<br />
The top is taken from an even older issue of Burda, it's pattern no. 119 from the July 2007 issue. <br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8WERUdRfhi50dbScAviVdIRVJrfSH5TSJmoT6s3hajkvpunVh8gnzazFgrnoPj-Mg92CuTdavD3x_yG4RNxBWuCn2Kx2RAwYvR5jhtMnYcCb0vBVm-0dF48OyhPDF86xXyicfp21zfc36/s1600/BWOF+7-2007-119+line+drawing.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="198px" naa="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8WERUdRfhi50dbScAviVdIRVJrfSH5TSJmoT6s3hajkvpunVh8gnzazFgrnoPj-Mg92CuTdavD3x_yG4RNxBWuCn2Kx2RAwYvR5jhtMnYcCb0vBVm-0dF48OyhPDF86xXyicfp21zfc36/s200/BWOF+7-2007-119+line+drawing.jpg" width="200px" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Burda Style #119, July 2007</td></tr>
</tbody></table> <br />
This is also an old favourite revisited because I first made a version of the top over two years ago. I kept meaning to make another one and I'm happy that I finally have. I like the style a lot - the gathers that go into the button band add some interest and nice shaping. The fabric I used is a silk that I have had in my stash for ages. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKuQYDQg1ZepXB9JN9zt-yY5Y0WKbTK24cehicDxZ8N8Ldas54FPPy78m0x8_6pVV0876aroMxwoB2g2aVISZYZ2VOupmbrZn-BdJSngkI54dNmwqlb7hVzP_fyjuNzX_c7gO_SPhLsdKU/s1600/Burda+Skirt+%252B+Burda+Top+036.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400px" naa="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKuQYDQg1ZepXB9JN9zt-yY5Y0WKbTK24cehicDxZ8N8Ldas54FPPy78m0x8_6pVV0876aroMxwoB2g2aVISZYZ2VOupmbrZn-BdJSngkI54dNmwqlb7hVzP_fyjuNzX_c7gO_SPhLsdKU/s400/Burda+Skirt+%252B+Burda+Top+036.jpg" width="300px" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Top out, more casual!</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
I hope that my choice of fabrics hasn't put you off these two really nice patterns. A dazzling sunshine yellow skirt paired with a bright and splashy flower print top is not everyone's cup of tea. I know that it's not really 'city chic' but sometimes I just can't help myself. I find I am irresistibly drawn to colours and prints that make me look like I have just stepped off a cruise ship. Is your wardrobe firmly rooted in your home climate or do you, like me, sometimes sew as if you are on a semi-permanent tropical vacation? Or, perhaps you actually do live in a hot-spot, in which case, do you sew as if you are hoping for snow?<br />
<br />
Eugeniahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07584571701550775408noreply@blogger.com39tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6258632543894619198.post-87409324290568392112011-07-29T05:44:00.000-07:002011-07-29T05:44:36.087-07:00Spending time with people who sew!Have you ever started to talk about your favourite subject, yes, I mean sewing, only to see your companion's eyes glaze over? It happens to me a lot. But not last Wednesday. Why? Lucky, lucky me I spent the afternoon with these lovely people<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicY06S7Xn4d5z84rhkRMn-1jlIY_eK9DJF4O09NWXMqrRJ-6pch4Afj8_mHMYoZfGuc-V6zmOTkQlhRVeOMrDNDeL1zPoRejB9FkpTZLZuYZuyeuMuN-7lHbnehs9PShr44mGUHk4xEpCj/s1600/Liberty+meet+up+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="298px" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicY06S7Xn4d5z84rhkRMn-1jlIY_eK9DJF4O09NWXMqrRJ-6pch4Afj8_mHMYoZfGuc-V6zmOTkQlhRVeOMrDNDeL1zPoRejB9FkpTZLZuYZuyeuMuN-7lHbnehs9PShr44mGUHk4xEpCj/s400/Liberty+meet+up+2.jpg" t$="true" width="400px" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Helen, Catherine, Claire and Elizabeth</td></tr>
</tbody></table> <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDVWt5NVwJ0cPnPILmoZXem37kVrP4h1RiTEVrZRxpHzdu2-xUBQrHrXQaGZDQxQCsL_Lu7hmMOt0tqxHFRW4yoHNvYk0Q0HuzWQzB9uIg8El_fdBq1rtICxxqxZpQtDGWezA36GyrGetx/s1600/Liberty+meet+up+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="298px" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDVWt5NVwJ0cPnPILmoZXem37kVrP4h1RiTEVrZRxpHzdu2-xUBQrHrXQaGZDQxQCsL_Lu7hmMOt0tqxHFRW4yoHNvYk0Q0HuzWQzB9uIg8El_fdBq1rtICxxqxZpQtDGWezA36GyrGetx/s400/Liberty+meet+up+1.jpg" t$="true" width="400px" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Helen, Catherine, Claire and me</td></tr>
</tbody></table>Elizabeth, from <a href="http://www.sewnblog.com/" target="_blank">SEWN</a> was visiting London from New York (I was very happy to see her again - we first met last summer in her home city). Also in the party were Helen from <a href="http://sewstylish.blogspot.com/" target="_blank">Sew Stylish</a>, <a href="http://cyberdaze.wordpress.com/" target="_blank">Catherine Daze</a> and Claire from <a href="http://sew-incidentally.blogspot.com/" target="_blank">Sew, Incidentally</a>. I was so pleased that Elizabeth's trip was the catalyst that enabled me to get together with these UK sewing-blogging ladies whose work I have admired from afar. <br />
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Naturally all of us wore something that we hade made. Helen's stunning colourful top, Catherine's amazing plaid dress, Claire's fabulous Sorbetto top and Elizabeth's super-cool linen pants perfectly showcased their wonderful sewing skills. Oh, and the skirt I am wearing was made by, yes, me! <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJfmtAS1Fi1qWnYRE-TCnFiWTcEnyHFipjK1Lffn7WWL9lKXrx6HtbKhFf8rcg0jfvE-jh2sShmOJMOG1jccXCRRY33Ux2ybD7K28ijytN6EYZpJkQqxPRVrtGc9jL_ofY-tWp5pXXwPU8/s1600/Liberty%2527s+exterior.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320px" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJfmtAS1Fi1qWnYRE-TCnFiWTcEnyHFipjK1Lffn7WWL9lKXrx6HtbKhFf8rcg0jfvE-jh2sShmOJMOG1jccXCRRY33Ux2ybD7K28ijytN6EYZpJkQqxPRVrtGc9jL_ofY-tWp5pXXwPU8/s320/Liberty%2527s+exterior.jpg" t$="true" width="240px" /></a></div><br />
We shopped at Liberty then trawled the fabric stores of Berwick Street. We laughed at shiny, sparkly theatrical polyesters and swooned over wildly expensive embellished silks. Have you ever cut into a piece of fabric costing £150 (USD 245) per metre? Phew!<br />
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We finally settled ourselves into one of Soho's characterful public houses for a well-earned drink, where we were joined by the lovely Karen, from <a href="http://didyoumakethat.wordpress.com/" target="_blank">Did You Make That?</a> I am so sorry that I missed meeting Melissa, from <a href="http://www.fehrtrade.com/" target="_blank">Fehr Trade</a> who joined the party just after I had to leave. <br />
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There is nothing like spending some time with like-minded people who sew to inspire you and reinforce your love of sewing. Do it whenever you can - I heartily recommend it!Eugeniahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07584571701550775408noreply@blogger.com27tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6258632543894619198.post-88816577063263767942011-07-23T05:28:00.000-07:002011-07-23T05:28:41.256-07:00I used the fabric of shame!Those of you that live in the USA are currently gearing yourself up for the ninth season of Project Runway, which starts this week. So you might be a little surprised to hear that here in the UK transmission stopped at season 6 and there are no plans to show seasons 7 or 8. However, to my delight, I recently managed to get my hands on a dvd of season 8.<br />
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Whilst watching episode one, I was thrilled to see that one of the designers picked out this fabric<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKLoHIvm84lFbzpJWPGVYd0Lvoo_RzmiGM5_jmwQ5a9E70ggXjN8BwGj4_M1v8T8Ru66nG1T8M5-itbyMtvelK9YymDTORZrvJ3_mx_roylZmkIHjbZwBpZrXR0UIIfSdvhZE_tEdzikq4/s1600/Fabric+Mood+2009.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="291px" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKLoHIvm84lFbzpJWPGVYd0Lvoo_RzmiGM5_jmwQ5a9E70ggXjN8BwGj4_M1v8T8Ru66nG1T8M5-itbyMtvelK9YymDTORZrvJ3_mx_roylZmkIHjbZwBpZrXR0UIIfSdvhZE_tEdzikq4/s400/Fabric+Mood+2009.jpg" t$="true" width="400px" /></a></div><br />
I purchased some of this very same silk fabric at Mood, back in August of 2009 (blogged about <a href="http://theworldofeugenia.blogspot.com/2009/08/new-york-city-fabric-fashion-food-and.html" target="_blank">here</a>), and I used it to make a dress shortly after. How excited I was! Could it be that this fabric was going to be used to make the winning creation? Would Heidi, Nina and Michael love it?<br />
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No, of course not. The designer was McKell Maddox and her dress was the losing dress. McKell was out.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiJRbIY2DM6OsMXl19sKvtz6_XKoeOee2f4jjlTLBp367Em6XTHK_21-TRNHiMxVwi5nPocMHwIaUPCUxEnyVFeaJKyzX6gYjbYIVqytuud1tR5PuWtAnR76cCebROKSIhXkHP0cxWr_b5/s1600/McKell+on+PR.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266px" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiJRbIY2DM6OsMXl19sKvtz6_XKoeOee2f4jjlTLBp367Em6XTHK_21-TRNHiMxVwi5nPocMHwIaUPCUxEnyVFeaJKyzX6gYjbYIVqytuud1tR5PuWtAnR76cCebROKSIhXkHP0cxWr_b5/s400/McKell+on+PR.jpg" t$="true" width="400px" /></a></div><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjC7BRT0XZpS5hyphenhyphen1LDnu4X7OBXN9d3qhCxd85oIRy7z9ywM7ybgQcytckxe1tXnyAVgcTWWSd1BUdbVUULeSq3rtJaWVGnD5hXFTTtPlZpvjnyS3QiuDuexDTvWrYUpNPrWkdo2eJo29LB/s1600/McKell+on+PR+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320px" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjC7BRT0XZpS5hyphenhyphen1LDnu4X7OBXN9d3qhCxd85oIRy7z9ywM7ybgQcytckxe1tXnyAVgcTWWSd1BUdbVUULeSq3rtJaWVGnD5hXFTTtPlZpvjnyS3QiuDuexDTvWrYUpNPrWkdo2eJo29LB/s320/McKell+on+PR+2.jpg" t$="true" width="307px" /></a></div><br />
I am trying not to feel too mortified because she only used this fabric for a part of the dress (the waistband and sash). Also I think that it was the design of the dress (Michael hated the "side cleavage") and the styling ("a train wreck"), not this particular choice of fabric, that the judges took issue with.<br />
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When I used the fabric I didn't mix it with other fabrics. Here's the dress I made (I originally blogged about it <a href="http://theworldofeugenia.blogspot.com/2009/11/sheath-dress-with-little-bling.html" target="_blank">here</a>.) <br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKWIpY6AHe4sqQzM8e4PbSOq6VkTGn1c5vp0PHK1iZ76-iVPxPFf-5RJeqyNr8e5DyR-kdJuLJfHHVqkb3Om7KykkR_l2Jh80MaIDtDMjszNdIMMhkjAhRowuBqPJ_etmuQKuJW7HmntH9/s1600/M5927+front.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400px" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKWIpY6AHe4sqQzM8e4PbSOq6VkTGn1c5vp0PHK1iZ76-iVPxPFf-5RJeqyNr8e5DyR-kdJuLJfHHVqkb3Om7KykkR_l2Jh80MaIDtDMjszNdIMMhkjAhRowuBqPJ_etmuQKuJW7HmntH9/s400/M5927+front.jpg" t$="true" width="300px" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">McCalls 5927 - made in November 2009</td></tr>
</tbody></table>I actually love this dress - it is now over a year and a half old and I still wear it quite often. I stand by the fabric, it handles beautifully and I really love the colours and print. I have some left and I do plan on using it - with careful thought! <br />
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With McKell's dress I think it's a case of good fabric being made bad, although under that kind of pressure I think she can be forgiven! In fact, I think that one of the most difficult things about making your own clothes is working out what fabric is going to work with what style, especially when used in combination with other fabrics. I have certainly made quite a few bad choices and I believe that even the most experienced of sewists have sometimes been surprised to find that their style judgements haven't quite worked out as they expected. <br />
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Have you ever taken a fabulous fabric and turned it into something disastrous? Do tell .......Eugeniahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07584571701550775408noreply@blogger.com31tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6258632543894619198.post-1455923890090564682011-07-04T06:34:00.000-07:002011-07-04T06:34:38.596-07:00Yes, it's that dress again and yay or nay for hand stitching?No apologies, but I have made yet another version of Simplicity 3503. I'm calling this latest version (number five) my 'English Summer Garden Dress' - just right for afternoon tea, the village fete and, of course, garden parties, where I can blend into the rose bushes!<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVw6PJVzirOY4hxJSxnbQmIC7NtcU_9Ylk-mihGZ13lbwMY7QWiaJ7qRCqhOCl_Ps0AvwsHQA_gqKHBsYCe3eKBZLEE3xNkBFAPDnHZ7pONQrl09CScJsV4ISz8t7yK-v1pJ8A6pm30qI0/s1600/S3503+V3+015.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400px" i$="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVw6PJVzirOY4hxJSxnbQmIC7NtcU_9Ylk-mihGZ13lbwMY7QWiaJ7qRCqhOCl_Ps0AvwsHQA_gqKHBsYCe3eKBZLEE3xNkBFAPDnHZ7pONQrl09CScJsV4ISz8t7yK-v1pJ8A6pm30qI0/s400/S3503+V3+015.jpg" width="300px" /></a></div><br />
When the fabric, which is a rayon lycra mix, arrived from <a href="http://www.gorgeousfabrics.com/" target="_blank">Gorgeous Fabrics</a> I loved it so much that I didn't want to take any risks with it. At the best of times knit fabrics can behave in quite wilful and unpredictable ways, so having a pattern you've made before really does increase your chances of finishing up with a dress that you love.<br />
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The pattern gives you a lot of different options. <br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIDlx_ACdaQg_Is-VqMEy1XL2yCqEkUi9OA7LF6I_f3hu7L2kHo9FUIBwa1DTqOSeJNr-y982gsithsa5TxMYXp-Y7cuwXc6csh5GYW3vRubiKzBnYugyX-JT1XcJN3mSBzTX9IvvKuo5B/s1600/Simplicity3503.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320px" i$="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIDlx_ACdaQg_Is-VqMEy1XL2yCqEkUi9OA7LF6I_f3hu7L2kHo9FUIBwa1DTqOSeJNr-y982gsithsa5TxMYXp-Y7cuwXc6csh5GYW3vRubiKzBnYugyX-JT1XcJN3mSBzTX9IvvKuo5B/s320/Simplicity3503.jpg" width="286px" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Simplicity 3503</td></tr>
</tbody></table>The one I made is in the bottom right hand corner (but I didn't use a contrasting fabric for the midriff or neck band). <br />
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I do love the sleeves<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkZ-nbqLQkgwTyNVbToStiMw_vrv5smA_-pC7pZs7i7BUqFx5H-7ZwnVdpJoFUUcqA_gGrNM6Sn52z2gxfIWNmTGKGL-n7nlqrgioIAfBt5DmUw4hjI-AJdEliIgp8ODGv_66vGPXedqk5/s1600/S3503+V3+006.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400px" i$="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkZ-nbqLQkgwTyNVbToStiMw_vrv5smA_-pC7pZs7i7BUqFx5H-7ZwnVdpJoFUUcqA_gGrNM6Sn52z2gxfIWNmTGKGL-n7nlqrgioIAfBt5DmUw4hjI-AJdEliIgp8ODGv_66vGPXedqk5/s400/S3503+V3+006.jpg" width="300px" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">If I flap my arms hard enough will I take off?</td></tr>
</tbody></table>They give coverage but because they are loose they are not too hot on warm days. <br />
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Whenever I make this pattern I follow the instructions as written except for one thing. Instead of machine stitching the neck band facing to the neck band at the inner edge I like to hand stitch it. Usually I am all for patterns that give you instructions for machine stitching rather than hand stitching but, in this particular case, I have found that it is easier to control the knit fabric, and keep it looking neat on the inside, if the facing is stitched down by hand. I also like the look of the clean neck band without machine stitching on the outside. But that's just me - if you hate to hand stitch, then following the pattern instructions is the way to go.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVcAMS5GW4sOQZTvXj_v-wsnEwobn4d6ZwxfrOOVZ-JL3slD9s8JLh2oRzDkm9E7iWn6I-CA57VzqxXeFuQrWIcEKa_Sv2yYbF8NTGUruvj7zUPN126tTb2urFpjHd8a4xI3gpYM4FM0UG/s1600/S3503+neck+band+002.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400px" i$="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVcAMS5GW4sOQZTvXj_v-wsnEwobn4d6ZwxfrOOVZ-JL3slD9s8JLh2oRzDkm9E7iWn6I-CA57VzqxXeFuQrWIcEKa_Sv2yYbF8NTGUruvj7zUPN126tTb2urFpjHd8a4xI3gpYM4FM0UG/s400/S3503+neck+band+002.jpg" width="300px" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Neck band facing inside dress</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
I don't like to do lots of hand stitching but I do enjoy it sometimes - I find it rather relaxing to be stitching away and listening to the radio and I like the exactness of it. How about you? Do you love it? Do you only do it if you absolutely have to? Or have you worked out all sorts of ingenious ways so that you can stitch absolutely everything by machine? <br />
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Is hand stitching haute couture or hateful? I'd love to know what you think .....Eugeniahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07584571701550775408noreply@blogger.com132tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6258632543894619198.post-90046379043896111922011-06-24T05:25:00.000-07:002011-06-24T05:26:37.423-07:00Is it a crime to actually use vintage notions?Last weekend I went to a small vintage sale, it had all sorts of lovely things and amongst them I was very happy to find some sewing treasures <br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0GvZDPw9U5wf2Pp0CFSFfgV7KX8ArQe44Ykx143hZIyCvOAb8gzMuUBFipZ3AJ4KwenRr3fn9i9_MHAxGrLtvs9dbhQcejB1ylq2gm2hNLqGmHpgOdk4qpmR7uwUClhgjRUSu7f8DPSWX/s1600/vintage+purchases+009.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="261px" i$="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0GvZDPw9U5wf2Pp0CFSFfgV7KX8ArQe44Ykx143hZIyCvOAb8gzMuUBFipZ3AJ4KwenRr3fn9i9_MHAxGrLtvs9dbhQcejB1ylq2gm2hNLqGmHpgOdk4qpmR7uwUClhgjRUSu7f8DPSWX/s400/vintage+purchases+009.jpg" width="400px" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vintage sleeve board, buttons and 5ft folding ruler</td></tr>
</tbody></table>I particularly love the sleeve board because, unlike my modern one, it is very heavy and absolutely rock solid. <br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4krQXSv4iFcJznscW1PtldDPkxL3_yDFfW_K09GzO6KCzgwCEj1qwrRff2PN_821w_Zj3-0JYArF5GJpp3qcNp6rnIekcF4Q6Ln6yU0Zmy4gGEZc3QyEuL8Qd1Dmb34uLnsBM1TweWYLK/s1600/vintage+sleeve+board+-+underside.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300px" i$="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4krQXSv4iFcJznscW1PtldDPkxL3_yDFfW_K09GzO6KCzgwCEj1qwrRff2PN_821w_Zj3-0JYArF5GJpp3qcNp6rnIekcF4Q6Ln6yU0Zmy4gGEZc3QyEuL8Qd1Dmb34uLnsBM1TweWYLK/s400/vintage+sleeve+board+-+underside.jpg" width="400px" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Underside of sleeve board</td></tr>
</tbody></table>Somebody has re-covered it very nicely so it is both decorative and extremely useful. <br />
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But on to the main subject of this post. The vintage buttons. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEig2ZBd8j-mTRxOnzoz4VmV4_yzal03_YvNiXS7_BOjvUJaivsAvJuVpGHemDp1CTt-DOirrp5a3rXZod753HvO7pNAi0f3ZL5CiRtIXWjknpaF-E_uEnmR_p_cRTrqRXWjzAAJJ5JSg0Vb/s1600/vintage+buttons-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300px" i$="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEig2ZBd8j-mTRxOnzoz4VmV4_yzal03_YvNiXS7_BOjvUJaivsAvJuVpGHemDp1CTt-DOirrp5a3rXZod753HvO7pNAi0f3ZL5CiRtIXWjknpaF-E_uEnmR_p_cRTrqRXWjzAAJJ5JSg0Vb/s400/vintage+buttons-1.jpg" width="400px" /></a></div><br />
They are French and the woman who sold them told me that they dated back to late 19th or early 20th century. As she handed them to me she asked <br />
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"Where will you display them, are you going to frame them?"<br />
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My answer was "I'm going to use them".<br />
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She looked startled and anxious. "What do you mean? What are you going to use them for? You're not going to take them from their cards are you?"<br />
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"I plan to sew them on to a dress that I am going to make and, yes, that will mean taking them from the cards."<br />
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I suspected that if she hadn't already taken my money, and handed them over, she would have refused to sell them to me. Now I do understand her feeling that lovely vintage items should be treasured but I don't believe that this sentiment should preclude actually using them. I promised her that I would only put them on something appropriate - I am thinking of a 1940's style dress (and I do have an original pattern that would be perfect - but more about that at a later date). My feeling is that these buttons were made to be used and loved and enjoyed and that sewing them to a dress is a happy thing for them.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCb-ZjLqXcnydfbz3GGz9sb57k73cVHyJDgfLobcln27wpQb1Y0DzrBvE0ks5XrrV7eSR-I-pzwcS4-ehAtWXfSATMLfYRIVME0rQY66rl8-3fnOYaVLaORJFhwFGNjB-jVfghCPWxRRpv/s1600/Dragnet.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="350px" i$="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCb-ZjLqXcnydfbz3GGz9sb57k73cVHyJDgfLobcln27wpQb1Y0DzrBvE0ks5XrrV7eSR-I-pzwcS4-ehAtWXfSATMLfYRIVME0rQY66rl8-3fnOYaVLaORJFhwFGNjB-jVfghCPWxRRpv/s400/Dragnet.jpg" width="400px" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">There's a woman out there committing crimes against buttons</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
What do you think? Should vintage things be preserved intact and only used for display? If I callously take my lovely buttons from their cards will the vintage police swoop in on me? Or is it ok to actually sew with them? I’d love to know what you think .....Eugeniahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07584571701550775408noreply@blogger.com44tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6258632543894619198.post-11391149623905970212011-06-17T05:42:00.000-07:002011-06-17T05:42:21.407-07:00Vogue 8664 - hot dress alert!You may not have noticed this pattern - the pattern envelope is quite understated, a couple of drawings, no photograph of the actual dress - so I nearly passed it by. Except for the fact that it is one of those Custom Fit patterns that gives you separate pieces for A, B, C, D cup sizes and I'm a real fan of those. So I bought it and, feeling the need for a classic sheath, made it up:<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgyCbm8Sm1Qn5TCAhQPSXtKRtWaHoJ9riSLWfCjXvuPKeeLHUsaQ7Ix1T3AumEeV-6w_Bhb4qy9W111Bo-Ze8bTjfdTjOjcC6CZEbc-lX9E0M-lmYnA8GQlnRia73bhWMN-qrg2WiWpFqZ/s1600/V8664+069.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400px" i$="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgyCbm8Sm1Qn5TCAhQPSXtKRtWaHoJ9riSLWfCjXvuPKeeLHUsaQ7Ix1T3AumEeV-6w_Bhb4qy9W111Bo-Ze8bTjfdTjOjcC6CZEbc-lX9E0M-lmYnA8GQlnRia73bhWMN-qrg2WiWpFqZ/s400/V8664+069.jpg" width="300px" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Every woman needs a little red dress!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>I really like how this pattern turned out - I think it has a kind of Mad Men meets Roland Mouret look! <br />
<br />
In my opinion it has a wonderful cut. The fit is well-judged, just the right amount of ease, and I really like the midriff piece: it adds waist definition without being uncomfortable. The neckline is interesting but not too low. I also think that the skirt is pegged perfectly - not too tight for comfort but it tapers in just enough to give it some va va voom. On that note I should probably mention that my DH LOVES this dress. If you’re looking for a sleek sheath, you might want to snap this pattern up. <br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFvtqI3jtBF7lei4WHtTf73Pat8hPHRo9egow48OB0WMQpJ5NEtO5g0VCzEAMDtmTDY5uPtVavYGU69OYeQBNegU7y5RWNJSIjr3tOeFOzn98jsES33WuFkAbv0aubsio6JjCHPGq-kE_S/s1600/V8664+pattern+envelope.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320px" i$="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFvtqI3jtBF7lei4WHtTf73Pat8hPHRo9egow48OB0WMQpJ5NEtO5g0VCzEAMDtmTDY5uPtVavYGU69OYeQBNegU7y5RWNJSIjr3tOeFOzn98jsES33WuFkAbv0aubsio6JjCHPGq-kE_S/s320/V8664+pattern+envelope.jpg" width="302px" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vogue 8664</td></tr>
</tbody></table>What's more it is classified by Vogue as Very Easy to make. Which it is. The trickiest part of the construction is the attachment of the sleeves. Here’s a tip - when marking up the pattern it is important that you differentiate between the large and the small dots at the lower corners. <br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIxsWpuitR-N7x204i4NzuTPvxvjXBlEsUblqrCwVUz3DerX5_q1fGaIF-V00wjlxbf8OUwjE-mmaJB3BC8Cn_HtkcKZMT4RKq_xg2pTEddVcVnTskNgnlO77-NrGvZ5vamF-71sCLz856/s1600/V8664+sleeve+piece+003.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300px" i$="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIxsWpuitR-N7x204i4NzuTPvxvjXBlEsUblqrCwVUz3DerX5_q1fGaIF-V00wjlxbf8OUwjE-mmaJB3BC8Cn_HtkcKZMT4RKq_xg2pTEddVcVnTskNgnlO77-NrGvZ5vamF-71sCLz856/s400/V8664+sleeve+piece+003.jpg" width="400px" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cap sleeve pattern piece</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
At first glance the sleeve pattern piece might look symmetrical but it isn't and the folks at Vogue have been smart in putting a large dot at the back and a small dot at the front to be matched with the bodice pieces. Take notice of these to ensure that you don't accidentally try to sew the sleeves in back to front. (I bet you're thinking that's exactly what I did. Well, as it happens, I didn't, but I have been caught out by this kind of thing before so have, hopefully, learnt my lesson!). Personally I make tailor's tacks using a different coloured thread for each of the dots because they show on both the right and wrong side and are easily removed but using different coloured chalk would also work. When it comes to sewing the sleeves, ensure that you match the dots exactly and then the sleeves will go in perfectly. <br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuvVUzNU3sTP43OLSnPdE6K_h9qppkeEGDCEy5EorNj-U16YfPiC9jlvXccYthYIZ975uXAJznISgpNy4Hq4H6fUCmVDVqHvuzeyjXf7WQ2v3DFhfPszXmWLsuRGKkdSdfA2M7XIu0ZNwv/s1600/V8664+sleeve+close+up.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320px" i$="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuvVUzNU3sTP43OLSnPdE6K_h9qppkeEGDCEy5EorNj-U16YfPiC9jlvXccYthYIZ975uXAJznISgpNy4Hq4H6fUCmVDVqHvuzeyjXf7WQ2v3DFhfPszXmWLsuRGKkdSdfA2M7XIu0ZNwv/s320/V8664+sleeve+close+up.jpg" width="254px" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sleeves good, arms not so much!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>A note on the fabric I used – it’s 100% wool, called Gabrielle Gabardine, purchased from <a href="http://www.voguefabricsstore.com/home.php" target="_blank">Vogue Fabrics</a>, and I lined it with bemberg rayon. <br />
<br />
So, I love this pattern. Will I make it again? I think I might!Eugeniahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07584571701550775408noreply@blogger.com65tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6258632543894619198.post-12382944032405945552011-06-10T05:48:00.000-07:002011-06-10T05:48:16.302-07:00Oh, for heaven's sake, not that dress again!When I returned from my vacation in Miami, in March, I showed you some of the things that I had sewn especially for my trip. However, I have to confess I didn't quite show you everything I had made. It's not that I was holding out on you so much as that I thought to myself, "how many pictures of me standing under a palm tree in Miami do my readers want to see?" Especially as what I didn't show you were dresses made from patterns that I had used previously. But now that's exactly what I want to talk about. TNT (Tried and Tested) patterns.<br />
<br />
So, here I am, in Miami, wearing my third version of Vogue 1179 <br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdOnFlPs_yF30TycJd5PsPrfNjZxMjKEIZkMa7CzIqltRCgOHIPrKVxebRT4u96_hPJtOolBje1V8WCDLFoI4ov6jP_c5faiLp0uOwCbWBhuUyC4-tYiTadq8kDDZOE6iy_ulzQqEZt0cM/s1600/V1179+V3+040.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400px" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdOnFlPs_yF30TycJd5PsPrfNjZxMjKEIZkMa7CzIqltRCgOHIPrKVxebRT4u96_hPJtOolBje1V8WCDLFoI4ov6jP_c5faiLp0uOwCbWBhuUyC4-tYiTadq8kDDZOE6iy_ulzQqEZt0cM/s400/V1179+V3+040.jpg" t8="true" width="300px" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vogue 1179</td></tr>
</tbody></table>I whipped this up in a poly-lycra, called 'Falling Leaves', from <a href="http://www.gorgeousfabrics.com/" target="_blank">Gorgeous Fabrics</a>. My first two versions of this pattern were for the fall/winter season (blogged about <a href="http://theworldofeugenia.blogspot.com/2010/10/its-fast-its-easy-and-its-dkny.html" target="_blank">here</a> and <a href="http://theworldofeugenia.blogspot.com/2011/01/vogue-1179-dkny-dress.html" target="_blank">here</a>). <br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDtslCv4TkI_BrAXd0OczmvfY02rREQ40iYfjLOa7os6qyk8OXbGPRDrtbHULuNyyoQXg7sfJtC6r0grOEVK_eEcmu54w_0O6P2e_t2tCsICJUdSoXWI96c4w6fg6pU-PNxr1cqGL8bGH7/s1600/V1179+two+versions.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298px" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDtslCv4TkI_BrAXd0OczmvfY02rREQ40iYfjLOa7os6qyk8OXbGPRDrtbHULuNyyoQXg7sfJtC6r0grOEVK_eEcmu54w_0O6P2e_t2tCsICJUdSoXWI96c4w6fg6pU-PNxr1cqGL8bGH7/s400/V1179+two+versions.jpg" t8="true" width="400px" /></a></div><br />
but I do think that when made up in a brightly coloured fabric, this pattern also works as a casual, comfortable summer dress.<br />
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And there's more! Here I am wearing my fourth version of Simplicity 3503, a pattern that I think is pure gold.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgP70Nq5CpBj17TdOWz23Um8Bn35YfDMC1pyRAmrGC03rEMhtyjWYClNDsP6Gq__YiLYVFMmAqfR6ax9bQ8UlGNf85iuMiJUeZlIFgLcGJxXAdEmeJl3-bCwY2UVv7yEQQN66Pif-lJzLwK/s1600/S3503+Maxi+V2+012.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400px" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgP70Nq5CpBj17TdOWz23Um8Bn35YfDMC1pyRAmrGC03rEMhtyjWYClNDsP6Gq__YiLYVFMmAqfR6ax9bQ8UlGNf85iuMiJUeZlIFgLcGJxXAdEmeJl3-bCwY2UVv7yEQQN66Pif-lJzLwK/s400/S3503+Maxi+V2+012.jpg" t8="true" width="300px" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Simplicity 3503</td></tr>
</tbody></table>Here are my other three versions (originally blogged about <a href="http://theworldofeugenia.blogspot.com/2009/09/maximum-style-from-simplicity-3503.html" target="_blank">here</a>, <a href="http://theworldofeugenia.blogspot.com/2010/12/simplicity-3503-any-time-dress.html" target="_blank">here</a> and <a href="http://theworldofeugenia.blogspot.com/2011/03/tropical-dress-from-simplicity-3503.html" target="_blank">here</a>).<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgh2fDtEBTx2z_E03fZmBuwMfhPLYHdOFFHRp0uiAZFuZgVbeeU-Jy_kes4fFOFl2yW2qb6Q-OZM2NxqOOjz-CT4vLLDKD_5LTQO9BWvtkP0aIzcIqY1biaFPln0ZcvrHjn9IoBS0AmDTCB/s1600/S3503+three+versions.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298px" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgh2fDtEBTx2z_E03fZmBuwMfhPLYHdOFFHRp0uiAZFuZgVbeeU-Jy_kes4fFOFl2yW2qb6Q-OZM2NxqOOjz-CT4vLLDKD_5LTQO9BWvtkP0aIzcIqY1biaFPln0ZcvrHjn9IoBS0AmDTCB/s400/S3503+three+versions.jpg" t8="true" width="400px" /></a></div><br />
I love how you can get some very different looks from one pattern and, no apologies, I am already planning yet another rendition!<br />
<br />
When you are sewing up a storm, with a deadline ahead, I think that there is nothing more valuable that a TNT. But do you think that sewing the same thing again and again is a little boring? Personally I feel happy that I have reached a stage in my sewing experience where I actually have some trusted patterns to fall back on. I know they fit, I know how to make them. However, I do also love to try new patterns, new styles and face new challenges. And, of course, I am always hoping to find another TNT to add to my collection.<br />
<br />
How about you? Do you only want to sew something new and different or do you have one or two, or more, TNT patterns that you love and often turn to? I'd really like to know ....Eugeniahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07584571701550775408noreply@blogger.com32tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6258632543894619198.post-76092703406898319642011-06-05T09:13:00.000-07:002011-06-05T09:13:42.714-07:00Does this dress look odd?I loved the look of this 'easy' knit dress pattern, McCalls 6319, and was very keen to make it. There's a lot that I like about the finished look<br />
<br />
<div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-slgIYtpFLSA/Teul-gjUaDI/AAAAAAAAB0k/S2vLXR9m504/s1600/M6319.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400px" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-slgIYtpFLSA/Teul-gjUaDI/AAAAAAAAB0k/S2vLXR9m504/s400/M6319.jpg" t8="true" width="300px" /></a></div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><br />
particularly the asymmetric neckline and the draped pleats of the skirt. However, although it may just be me, I do think that there is something odd about this pattern.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSbjphyphenhyphenPJCuue43dtzksXJCupD6vVUZi0vfWocxYixTS7V8538IsbKH77wMQayNByz-8_TzDJM1NQII5CsUli32Unkot698273Wqq7ixInpkwxaCH8IRhIsfskXKdryBqJoQiYfP5ssmEP/s1600/M6319+pattern+envelope.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320px" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSbjphyphenhyphenPJCuue43dtzksXJCupD6vVUZi0vfWocxYixTS7V8538IsbKH77wMQayNByz-8_TzDJM1NQII5CsUli32Unkot698273Wqq7ixInpkwxaCH8IRhIsfskXKdryBqJoQiYfP5ssmEP/s320/M6319+pattern+envelope.jpg" t8="true" width="303px" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">McCalls 6319</td></tr>
</tbody></table>I confess that I did notice it when I was cutting it out but, in my enthusiasm, I didn't really think hard about what it would mean in reality. Let me see if I can explain.<br />
<br />
The skirt and bodice are sewn together then the seam allowances are used to make an elasticised casing. Nothing unusual about that except that the dress is designed so that this 'elasticised waist' finishes up an inch above your real waist. This is what the skirt front pattern piece looks like, I have outlined the marking for the waistline in red, so you can see how it falls below the seam line that joins it to the bodice. <br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLsPfI2o_oTXUxUlQa23dynOdpYOSEi97pxzAd8as66vBCp6o-bRqxsaUBWSli06jhv-weQko0TBVzQWVt2msLalaAP2zsH2anYZ9A_04ea6s1eI6OQppfnSCBLTHNq_hLHdsiUjAXrB9H/s1600/M6319+pattern+piece.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300px" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLsPfI2o_oTXUxUlQa23dynOdpYOSEi97pxzAd8as66vBCp6o-bRqxsaUBWSli06jhv-weQko0TBVzQWVt2msLalaAP2zsH2anYZ9A_04ea6s1eI6OQppfnSCBLTHNq_hLHdsiUjAXrB9H/s400/M6319+pattern+piece.jpg" t8="true" width="400px" /></a></div><br />
Now you might think that this wouldn't actually matter because the draping of the bodice would allow the elastic to settle into your waistline but that doesn't happen because the bodice is lined and the lining pattern piece is quite a bit shorter than the outer fabric. This means that although the outer fabric drapes, the lining inside doesn't and it keeps the elasticised casing above your real waist. As per the pattern recommendation I used tricot for the lining and, although it is stretchy, it doesn't stretch enough to allow me to pull the elastic down to the waist, where I think it would feel more comfortable. Does all of this make any sense? <br />
<br />
It might be, of course, that this wouldn't bother you (that model on the pattern envelope doesn't look at all bothered!) but if I were to make this pattern again, I think I would make the lining the same length as the outer fabric or I would lengthen both the bodice and the lining or I wouldn't line it or ...... oh, I don't know but I'd do something different! Sometimes things don't work out quite as you expect them to but at least I have learned something in the process and I don't think this is too disastrous?</div>Eugeniahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07584571701550775408noreply@blogger.com41tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6258632543894619198.post-20240096957793984822011-05-30T07:23:00.000-07:002011-05-30T08:06:04.171-07:00A day in Eugenia's sewing space ....Ok , I’m ready to sew. This top shouldn’t take long to make.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg08uagWo2aoMYDCKFj9nuRrU60PIesMg6qwgLJg9nytHLGdPCXvqEOKIp-pPwoE2ahvIBPdmqRsgZ574GtDjUJI3eb1W1kLuonLEjUAV5frbDBkES191mYrJfYWj5OFby0S0YFTkWjYWPB/s1600/clock.jpg"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 289px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 400px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5612515497961264738" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg08uagWo2aoMYDCKFj9nuRrU60PIesMg6qwgLJg9nytHLGdPCXvqEOKIp-pPwoE2ahvIBPdmqRsgZ574GtDjUJI3eb1W1kLuonLEjUAV5frbDBkES191mYrJfYWj5OFby0S0YFTkWjYWPB/s400/clock.jpg" /></a>Quick look at the instructions and get the sewing machine threaded. Now where is that thread.....<br /><br />Right, sewing machine threaded. Oh, I need to re-thread the serger too. I’ll just find that thread ...<br /><br />That's done. I really am ready to sew now. Oooh, before I start, let's just check the blogosphere, see who's doing what …..<br /><br />Ok, here we go. First stabilise the shoulder seams. Where did I put that vilene bias tape?<br /><br />Shoulders stabilised. Maybe I'll just pop downstairs to have a cup of coffee and a couple of chocolate cookies to keep my strength up ….<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTqR-uslKffldjUTVoDFwlaeA9D7mbKDPU93YpHCY9ZZbXb7viO6pnn7Vp9g46_02vP4fM7HqYioT2Y6_eHwKn-uu_kn9CVVZr8Zd2HWZFVSbBF3n8-CKE4xIcb6JUnAwLfDm6X6yGfve2/s1600/Fortnums+Biscuits.jpg"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 392px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 392px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5612516865654731794" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTqR-uslKffldjUTVoDFwlaeA9D7mbKDPU93YpHCY9ZZbXb7viO6pnn7Vp9g46_02vP4fM7HqYioT2Y6_eHwKn-uu_kn9CVVZr8Zd2HWZFVSbBF3n8-CKE4xIcb6JUnAwLfDm6X6yGfve2/s400/Fortnums+Biscuits.jpg" /></a>Now where was I? Right, sew shoulder seams. Now for the neck binding. Oooh didn't I read a very good article about neck bindings in Threads Magazine? I'll just look for that magazine ….<br /><br />Well that was interesting. But I think I'll just do it like the pattern says. Oh, I'm hungry. Must be lunchtime….<br /><br />Right, let's have another look at the blogosphere, just to see what's new, and I need to check my e-mails. Oooh, look Gorgeous Fabrics is having a flash sale, just a quick browse …<br /><br />Mmmm 8 yards of gorgeous fabric is going to be with me very soon. Better get this top done, make room for the new fabric. Right neck binding on. Oh, that's the phone. "Hi Mum. No, of course I can chat”<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicJqiIA25xfmem0RzMebxs8Jq2LcH5aUMqMe-IhgIKZ6OqH6s1FRRIWnqJ1yFBF7HtyJdP8C5vAPYeA-bmrSEBu7jZXVYM7kuu9SNQNByx_JMA-C94T_ej8HjXfJNZWj8ywJGBuB5NNryJ/s1600/on+the+phone.jpg"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 351px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 400px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5612517399964955298" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicJqiIA25xfmem0RzMebxs8Jq2LcH5aUMqMe-IhgIKZ6OqH6s1FRRIWnqJ1yFBF7HtyJdP8C5vAPYeA-bmrSEBu7jZXVYM7kuu9SNQNByx_JMA-C94T_ej8HjXfJNZWj8ywJGBuB5NNryJ/s400/on+the+phone.jpg" /></a><br />Where was I? Perhaps a cup of coffee and some more chocolate cookies will help me focus on this. Oh and isn’t there an episode of Murder She Wrote on tv around now?<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvTbIP3A_p48PL90oJP4yWwGFZpNihHdV-te-WsZPYHdITWdhQs02ZqRMQOpUkHB8UKbHvX0jzMU-hiPaCPuVLfKfvWk2ZhyOItyWsn9NN6Kxx042x9KwdcAJa95x62KKH3Jb2znjtXbtr/s1600/murder-she-wrote.jpg"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 300px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5612518081322765506" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvTbIP3A_p48PL90oJP4yWwGFZpNihHdV-te-WsZPYHdITWdhQs02ZqRMQOpUkHB8UKbHvX0jzMU-hiPaCPuVLfKfvWk2ZhyOItyWsn9NN6Kxx042x9KwdcAJa95x62KKH3Jb2znjtXbtr/s400/murder-she-wrote.jpg" /></a> <br />Attach the sleeves to the body. Excellent. Oooh just remembered I meant to put a load of washing in the machine ....<br /><br />Oh, there's my Burda magazine. I'll just take a look at that pattern I was thinking of making, maybe I'll have another chocolate cookie while I'm at it …<br /><br />Right. Let's get serious about this sewing. Sew side seams, try it on, things are going really well. I'll just glance at the blogosphere and, while I’m at it, maybe I’ll have a look at the new Butterick patterns that have just come in ….<br /><br />Sew hem. Phew, we're done. Wow, time to prepare dinner already? What! That simple t-shirt took me the whole day?<br /><br />Does this sort of day sound familiar to you? Or are you awesomely organised, super-speedy and perfectly focussed when it comes to sewing? Can you finish a one hour top in 59 minutes flat? I'd love to know ...Eugeniahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07584571701550775408noreply@blogger.com61tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6258632543894619198.post-42587980035345669992011-05-23T05:50:00.000-07:002011-05-23T06:22:57.749-07:00Burda 7645 - a t-shirt with bust darts .... interesting!At this time of the year I always feel the need to fill my wardrobe with t-shirts. Cheap, light-weight cotton RTW ones are fine but it is nice to have something that looks not quite so casual and, more importantly, fits just right. So this is what I made<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVxHJ2SAFfoIU16Ed6ZPIyu3bDUE1YdaZbPY1pv0w-ttiIeAiByLlApodm_rjK-mg6DLmPV-OCQQie3T2-hQXwhMNz0Q5pK-dYoRlkfHqe041L6_cW-hxPqhYxHHcRnGSkUMt9QC9mbCsU/s1600/Burda+7645.jpg"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 300px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 400px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5609894127111873890" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVxHJ2SAFfoIU16Ed6ZPIyu3bDUE1YdaZbPY1pv0w-ttiIeAiByLlApodm_rjK-mg6DLmPV-OCQQie3T2-hQXwhMNz0Q5pK-dYoRlkfHqe041L6_cW-hxPqhYxHHcRnGSkUMt9QC9mbCsU/s400/Burda+7645.jpg" /></a><br />The pattern I used is Burda 7645. I wanted loose fitting but with some shape and, although I wasn't particularly in love with the picture on the envelope, this fitted the bill.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTZRWcmKRQpVP5wMODWu5Mu1NmGwRKR_GePU6y0gxHntR_gRyxJmO1Rf2zw0_wA1YAlE1oo3W0QVIk09wD8CcogizxyWhQTjFVYzes9eAU7T3DnhsZbh6qp3-Z40Z02-ogDLtWrusXblte/s1600/Burda+7645+pattern+002.jpg"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 300px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 400px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5609894531422929810" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTZRWcmKRQpVP5wMODWu5Mu1NmGwRKR_GePU6y0gxHntR_gRyxJmO1Rf2zw0_wA1YAlE1oo3W0QVIk09wD8CcogizxyWhQTjFVYzes9eAU7T3DnhsZbh6qp3-Z40Z02-ogDLtWrusXblte/s400/Burda+7645+pattern+002.jpg" /></a><br />I made View A but shorter (the one on the left). What's interesting about this t-shirt pattern is that it has bust darts. It turns out that for my kind of shape (curvy), that works well. Another thing I like about this pattern is that Burda give sensible instructions for knit fabrics (something that the big four don't seem to do so well). It's very fast and easy to make. Sew bust darts, shoulder seams, apply neck and sleeve bindings, sew side seams, hem. You're done!<br /><br />I thought this style worked well for this particular fabric - the simplicity of it shows off the print nicely. It's 100% rayon jersey and is designed by Anna Sui. It has a really cute print of birdcages and flowers in squares. I bought it from <a href="http://voguefabricsstore.com/" target="_blank">Vogue Fabrics</a>, who describe it as "a playful mosaic to delight ornithologists and horticulturalists alike". Here's a closer look at it<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgy_DINxHQtprv6LociZWERAS6qjFi44iASdfEmWQXSttJ7SYrycjPhTkSFvCFdmAsuDkkQay0lOgbOsTxPQQmNdTOIX3jWfPWMGF0AuVVMOZgk9h8zhkLg5OMkkhZ8odb9nZZLhyphenhyphenZIInHW/s1600/Burda+7645+fabric+003.jpg"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 300px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5609898778617563362" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgy_DINxHQtprv6LociZWERAS6qjFi44iASdfEmWQXSttJ7SYrycjPhTkSFvCFdmAsuDkkQay0lOgbOsTxPQQmNdTOIX3jWfPWMGF0AuVVMOZgk9h8zhkLg5OMkkhZ8odb9nZZLhyphenhyphenZIInHW/s400/Burda+7645+fabric+003.jpg" /></a><br />I am definitely going to be making this pattern again.<br /><br />Oh, but wait ....... I already have!<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJVuPuhd5XbmBsVo7cH_aAwq5bS65ToA4WO9PVgsZ8hhd1BPfEmsNae2hhNL7lIjDRViFqhJT_HRIbkFKzjk4EOMMWvBsWVPOqvvibbAGgPwvBWklj41bTWDc3lDs__vSQVnVENmLkcpXm/s1600/Burda+7645+2nd+version.jpg"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 300px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 400px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5609894825243928610" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJVuPuhd5XbmBsVo7cH_aAwq5bS65ToA4WO9PVgsZ8hhd1BPfEmsNae2hhNL7lIjDRViFqhJT_HRIbkFKzjk4EOMMWvBsWVPOqvvibbAGgPwvBWklj41bTWDc3lDs__vSQVnVENmLkcpXm/s400/Burda+7645+2nd+version.jpg" /></a> Version two is made from some fabric that I bought at Mood in New York - I think it's a rayon/lycra mix. I just love big splashy colourful flower prints. I have some more of this fabric so look out for a dress that I am planning for it!<br /><br />Oooh and something exciting - President and Mrs Obama are due to arrive here in London tomorrow. I am eagerly looking forward to watching the news coverage so that I can check out all Michelle's outfits. I love that lady's style!Eugeniahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07584571701550775408noreply@blogger.com37tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6258632543894619198.post-22038190817829932022011-05-16T04:26:00.000-07:002011-05-16T04:49:34.054-07:00Fabric Fandango and pattern stash sumsSome weeks ago I put myself on a severely restricted fabric diet. Absolutely no more fabric purchases until I have substantially reduced the extensive yardage in my stash. I was doing well, really I was …… until last Saturday afternoon. But it wasn't my fault, they made me do it. Yes, you know who you are!<br /><br />On Saturday I was part of the large crowd of enthusiastic and very wonderful sewing people who descended upon London's Goldhawk Road for a gentle afternoon of restrained fabric buying. No, let me be honest, it was a wild, abandoned fabric-fest. At such a thrilling event to have purchased nothing would have been completely impossible. That is my story and I am sticking to it.<br /><br />This Fabric Fandango was organised by the very lovely and talented Karen, from <a href="http://didyoumakethat.wordpress.com/" target="_blank">Did You Make That</a> (do visit her blog for the full story, pictures and a list of the participants). Three cheers for Karen - we all had a fabulous and fun time. There were about forty of us - I was thrilled to meet so many other wonderful sewists!<br /><br />So, a glimpse of my purchases.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9NXwS2thxCbX4LSsAZQVVQeFxDozyYxAEaGpxXdBpDhJu9-_IOb3U9djb7R91o6mi0P9hkpqWOszKhuHmyAd0pfB5_-HQOGhbyOkiWb0WdF1S1UFa2CIRqYhAL0JW2_3GO1fBIV7tGj0I/s1600/Goldhawk+Road+fabrics.jpg"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 300px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5607276374600791346" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9NXwS2thxCbX4LSsAZQVVQeFxDozyYxAEaGpxXdBpDhJu9-_IOb3U9djb7R91o6mi0P9hkpqWOszKhuHmyAd0pfB5_-HQOGhbyOkiWb0WdF1S1UFa2CIRqYhAL0JW2_3GO1fBIV7tGj0I/s400/Goldhawk+Road+fabrics.jpg" /></a><br />All cottons, all bright and beautiful - I was clearly in tropical vacation mode. All I need to do now is to plan a vacation and to sew them into something nice! In the meantime, they do look lovely sitting amongst the very large pile of fabrics that I own.<br /><br />Perhaps at this point I should also mention my pattern stash which has now also become seriously overstocked. I am considering doing the following calculation. Total number of patterns I own but have not yet sewn divided by the number of garments that I usually sew per year. The total would be the number of years it will take to actually use all of the patterns that I have purchased (assuming, of course, that during that time I don't buy any more patterns and I don't sew a pattern twice - pretty unlikely, eh?)<br /><br />I daren't do that calculation because a quick look at my pattern collection tells me that I'm going to have to be sewing for an awful long time. Have you ever done this calculation when looking at your own pattern collection? Were you happy with the answer, or did it alarm you?<br /><br />Before I go, a big hello to everyone who aided and abetted my fabric purchases on Saturday. I loved spending time with you and I'm looking forward to the next time! Thanks Karen, you're a star xxx.Eugeniahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07584571701550775408noreply@blogger.com19tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6258632543894619198.post-80084276966956528222011-05-10T05:13:00.000-07:002011-05-10T05:52:51.881-07:00Finished jeans ... and some tips!So, you have been warned, my jeans are finished and, yes, they are purple<br /><br /><p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-hFiKnSp21pkPhLtxCNCRCB4p2muudZLnXz2T5rfnkJPWpVTsWKczKoR8tpFY9JIy0rcagw6JOi8fiRRoQxQ0iqZCQFbci8Q6r-tV8NM5S1EKTUNmYEzv6EE8eXh5lSITaXBqwEMw6-w3/s1600/M5894+149.jpg"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 300px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 400px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5605060261233618322" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-hFiKnSp21pkPhLtxCNCRCB4p2muudZLnXz2T5rfnkJPWpVTsWKczKoR8tpFY9JIy0rcagw6JOi8fiRRoQxQ0iqZCQFbci8Q6r-tV8NM5S1EKTUNmYEzv6EE8eXh5lSITaXBqwEMw6-w3/s400/M5894+149.jpg" /></a> But that is the wonderful thing about making your own jeans – you can make them any colour you like! The fabric is a cotton twill with a little lycra and it’s just perfect for a summer-weight pair of jeans – it is sturdy but cool.<br /><br />These jeans are the product of taking Jennifer Stern’s ‘Blue Print to Blue Jeans’ course on <a href="http://patternreview.com/" target="_blank">Pattern Review</a>. It was excellent – I got some great fitting advice by posting pictures of my muslin for Jennifer to comment on.<br /><br />Here is the back view<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdCivX9xiOZXNfF7sorp8j-1gx-kNBSa7xQzrZ_kMzFbHQJ0RhAP92lYJEwWi4ARuO-aSbf1nzDB_ELMSP8zFQ-lmhUct94krP6EMj2ceawersjM4kcA6PHjaTOPUXYw1sL-0rpqg3MKZO/s1600/M5894+147.jpg"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 300px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 400px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5605060927677256050" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdCivX9xiOZXNfF7sorp8j-1gx-kNBSa7xQzrZ_kMzFbHQJ0RhAP92lYJEwWi4ARuO-aSbf1nzDB_ELMSP8zFQ-lmhUct94krP6EMj2ceawersjM4kcA6PHjaTOPUXYw1sL-0rpqg3MKZO/s400/M5894+147.jpg" /></a><br />And this is the pattern I used, it’s McCall’s 5894<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoU51t4VjDka7fS6ad9M4UrxdcnC-Qq4I9n0ixvNDtk4SVdPlbqBhHB0ohYczZRGlIWDE0LmfwnrzveWNPRmwdxVdOlFTdSHo44GPZJoNT2jMaddytXoYG5en5KqP54xdyearn4Sc8ilI7/s1600/M5894+pattern.jpg"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 379px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 400px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5605062145835433698" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoU51t4VjDka7fS6ad9M4UrxdcnC-Qq4I9n0ixvNDtk4SVdPlbqBhHB0ohYczZRGlIWDE0LmfwnrzveWNPRmwdxVdOlFTdSHo44GPZJoNT2jMaddytXoYG5en5KqP54xdyearn4Sc8ilI7/s400/M5894+pattern.jpg" /></a>I did, however, make the fit a little different because I lowered the front rise by about an inch and I narrowed the legs from the hips to the knees. I was aiming for a ‘relaxed’ fit with a slight flare. If you are thinking of using this pattern, the instructions are excellent but you might want to go down a size from the one they give for your measurements.<br /><br />When it comes to making jeans I do think that it is worth the effort of adding the details that turn a pair of pants into a pair of jeans<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKy72Gn_ip2QMZ-xxFC8z6AmQirn3f1LBSAXkGFZ364Ah0X7kzvOG97Kd6jd7Nnc7fDv-rntvCzSL3N-fOtTxP7G5oQ_JbTYvVD2DVC1AIrib1VKhnrp_KT2MAA_a4vI8RdTQby7mJoqjc/s1600/M5894+front+close+up.jpg"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 300px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5605063180776878482" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKy72Gn_ip2QMZ-xxFC8z6AmQirn3f1LBSAXkGFZ364Ah0X7kzvOG97Kd6jd7Nnc7fDv-rntvCzSL3N-fOtTxP7G5oQ_JbTYvVD2DVC1AIrib1VKhnrp_KT2MAA_a4vI8RdTQby7mJoqjc/s400/M5894+front+close+up.jpg" /></a><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfxkThnZ6vNRf_acqRCT3KdhJ6qBMQpLsXkuxgbuNqY3lmIeTRw9IgiiRQMnd1oOzPx3utJjoUcs6l84DWLmd086LDGeYaA5JH0i1KF03BYjJ-czemB0rT25rorlZ0DhTBT_ab1uXeVOy3/s1600/M5894+back+view.jpg"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 300px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5605063627262709666" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfxkThnZ6vNRf_acqRCT3KdhJ6qBMQpLsXkuxgbuNqY3lmIeTRw9IgiiRQMnd1oOzPx3utJjoUcs6l84DWLmd086LDGeYaA5JH0i1KF03BYjJ-czemB0rT25rorlZ0DhTBT_ab1uXeVOy3/s400/M5894+back+view.jpg" /></a><br />The contrasting topstitching, the coin pocket, the rivets and the belt loops all give the garment ‘authenticity’ and a nice toughness, even if you aren’t working with denim.<br /><br />When looking at the close-up photograph of the front, above, you might be wondering if I lost control of my sewing machine when it came to topstitching the coin pocket because on one side of the pocket the stitching extends to the waistband. This wasn’t a mistake, it’s one of the design suggestions that Jennifer gave us in the course and if you look at RTW jeans you will find that quite a lot of them have similar interesting stitching details.<br /><br />While constructing my jeans there were two pieces of equipment that I found invaluable. This one,<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXp7ozBT23EvAtzsTxlhz2oaucMzoTze4YRjvjQbqeXTU6_bqT9NEk7jnP7neET5ByIYxj8sBQdSvROx1zl4CLvCXl2S_qsYi7ltf4vlFTQr672pUiWMMqywEAJIWmp6M41cv-ApKbwR_C/s1600/dritz+jean-a-ma-jig.jpg"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 131px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 225px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5605062721609938018" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXp7ozBT23EvAtzsTxlhz2oaucMzoTze4YRjvjQbqeXTU6_bqT9NEk7jnP7neET5ByIYxj8sBQdSvROx1zl4CLvCXl2S_qsYi7ltf4vlFTQr672pUiWMMqywEAJIWmp6M41cv-ApKbwR_C/s400/dritz+jean-a-ma-jig.jpg" /></a> called a Jean-a-ma-jig, is a simple but ingenious device that helps your machine get over the hump of lots of layers of fabric. In fact my jeans weren’t as bulky as denim but the difficulty wasn’t stitching through a lot of layers of fabric so much as when I had a difference in layers, i.e. when there is a hump of fabric and the presser foot can’t lie flat. Without the Jean-a-ma-jig I would never have got my belt loops sewn on without throwing my machine (and myself!) out of the window.<br /><br />The second thing is a pair of Prym Vario Pliers.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlkMY70-fA2839TB0Nlr7tQKevoJO1QmASs7qIDNECaH9PDPYs1x1EbFjaupdJBBOExOOfC0a0nYmVBL5QWlPPM-k5krpcfjUncGN8ikBN1E2HHSZPor49ueWkJ-ee1ZJzYNpRjPbKr4Dt/s1600/prym+vario+pliers.jpg"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 142px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 400px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5605062443652561074" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlkMY70-fA2839TB0Nlr7tQKevoJO1QmASs7qIDNECaH9PDPYs1x1EbFjaupdJBBOExOOfC0a0nYmVBL5QWlPPM-k5krpcfjUncGN8ikBN1E2HHSZPor49ueWkJ-ee1ZJzYNpRjPbKr4Dt/s400/prym+vario+pliers.jpg" /></a> These pliers, which cost about £9.50, make inserting rivets very easy indeed. One squeeze makes the hole, then you change the heads, place the rivets in the pliers, another squeeze and they are in. It’s very quick, simple and secure. I also used the pliers for attaching my jeans button (when you buy the buttons they come with the special heads for the pliers). No need for hammers, screws, wooden blocks etc. I purchased mine at Kleins in central London. If you want to see them in action, Kleins have a video on YouTube, you can see it <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZShW7Uie6F0" target="_blank">here</a><br /><br />Another tip. I discovered that it is much easier to make a neat buttonhole if you don’t sew down the front belt loop on the buttonhole side until after you have made the buttonhole. I made a couple of trial buttonholes on spare fabric without any difficulty but when I tried it on the real thing my machine jammed up. What was happening is that the back of the buttonhole foot (which extends quite a long way) didn’t like having to go over the belt loop. Once I had unpicked the stitching that held the belt loop down, so that I could fold it out of the way, the machine did the buttonhole without any trouble.<br /><br />Before I go, I must, of course, also mention Peter’s MPB Jeans Sew-Along. If you want a clearly explained tutorial on jeans construction then <a href="http://malepatternboldness.blogspot.com/" target="_blank">Peter’s blog</a> is the place to go.<br /><br />Having finished making a pair of jeans I feel quite light-headed. Designer jeans cost a lot of money – it’s a billion dollar business - and there is something very liberating about the thought that I can make some of my own. In any colour, with any of the little design details that I fancy. And if I can, then believe me, so can you!<br /></p>Eugeniahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07584571701550775408noreply@blogger.com66tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6258632543894619198.post-25766058100017515122011-05-04T04:57:00.000-07:002011-05-04T05:23:12.843-07:00Simplicity 2339 Amazing Fit shirtI have, at last, finished my Simplicity, Amazing Fit Shirt. It wasn’t difficult but, phew, as I grumbled in my last post, there is a lot of work in making a shirt! Anyway, it’s done and here it is<br /><br /><p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJQBWaS8lv1fC7I01CZ06lWYhtklYTGMjgMS-otx4Ey5R_ifZgT3e7qT1J0oL0CtREBsdTUfoCz7RXglCAnYWwsRhcTXGRnvyuyM54LpR1o3Ix6FOwyoK91vJ6lvlSUU1TIcNLOn_xpRqs/s1600/S2339+017.jpg"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 300px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 400px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5602829659252865314" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJQBWaS8lv1fC7I01CZ06lWYhtklYTGMjgMS-otx4Ey5R_ifZgT3e7qT1J0oL0CtREBsdTUfoCz7RXglCAnYWwsRhcTXGRnvyuyM54LpR1o3Ix6FOwyoK91vJ6lvlSUU1TIcNLOn_xpRqs/s400/S2339+017.jpg" /></a>The fabric is a rayon silk mix, purchased from <a href="http://voguefabricsstore.com/" target="_blank">Vogue Fabrics</a>, called Artiste Orchid. I am wearing it with the skirt I made from Vogue 2647 (blogged about <a href="http://theworldofeugenia.blogspot.com/2011/04/vogue-skirt-and-whats-been-keeping-me.html" target="_blank">here</a>) which is made from a co-ordinating fabric from Vogue Fabrics Early Spring 2011 collection.<br /><br /><p>Here’s how the shirt looks tucked in<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0LWUukLWboZ2ymruHjf_6i-uNPhSZY8PJtGm94_4ZglmZgIGI7T9hJ_cIGyuznSX4aNoxp7LnBjVT7KBBpq_-oluuQcijf7wa86mj4EaO_Q2zUmUZZgStD4REL1TfY7Q36MmpVfJ9KJFg/s1600/S2339+041.jpg"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 300px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 400px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5602829928246928418" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0LWUukLWboZ2ymruHjf_6i-uNPhSZY8PJtGm94_4ZglmZgIGI7T9hJ_cIGyuznSX4aNoxp7LnBjVT7KBBpq_-oluuQcijf7wa86mj4EaO_Q2zUmUZZgStD4REL1TfY7Q36MmpVfJ9KJFg/s400/S2339+041.jpg" /></a> This is my respectable ‘going to the office’ look – only I don’t actually have an office to go to any more but sometimes it’s nice to have this sort of outfit anyway.<br /><br />Here’s how it looks worn more casually, which is more my everyday kind of look<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5qLxOGDfErvwGjDNKCZPpX7DKL7Ml3et2Uxk4KudbRz-MVn11w_aARGFv-JhvHgrZV9csITx8iPreSWMTrxCb5-jZR4zC_2EGgUwGjWrVjayVIW2CB5Qbv-DSkuE_sdrCdiMZBR6D3tzE/s1600/S2339+059.jpg"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 300px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 400px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5602830309063647714" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5qLxOGDfErvwGjDNKCZPpX7DKL7Ml3et2Uxk4KudbRz-MVn11w_aARGFv-JhvHgrZV9csITx8iPreSWMTrxCb5-jZR4zC_2EGgUwGjWrVjayVIW2CB5Qbv-DSkuE_sdrCdiMZBR6D3tzE/s400/S2339+059.jpg" /></a> This is the pattern I used<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcfVHPXwGcM7_i3LEjbDJymgtLEMpAM1LmBdza7imCONe5qKQ5NtqCLG-meqmzP39LF0cOBoXiO-zjSiHYaSsf87xOtKG7ujVlFYKF-MSep5IrvjxjzBkD-X8VNRmTqZNhqWGV_2wA1tuW/s1600/Simplicity+2339.jpg"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 279px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 400px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5602830639454511762" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcfVHPXwGcM7_i3LEjbDJymgtLEMpAM1LmBdza7imCONe5qKQ5NtqCLG-meqmzP39LF0cOBoXiO-zjSiHYaSsf87xOtKG7ujVlFYKF-MSep5IrvjxjzBkD-X8VNRmTqZNhqWGV_2wA1tuW/s400/Simplicity+2339.jpg" /></a>I made View B (bottom left) i.e. with the collar and with both horizontal and vertical darts but I used the sleeves from View A (bottom right) which have a button and tab cuff thing –<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFSzhdunr7vxQU4dpEVx5MMqBKNUgxXdcS_mqM-JK-AwjFraB5uI-mYCDv_mqHjk7sffcAgD8tfkzyu2s0t4kwy2Rvie3nzD7VKIvDvDo75CcIVR_73-ZCidGeIZt4gMtFi9bJrqPQwTlo/s1600/S2339+sleeve+tab.jpg"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 300px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 400px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5602831557138357538" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFSzhdunr7vxQU4dpEVx5MMqBKNUgxXdcS_mqM-JK-AwjFraB5uI-mYCDv_mqHjk7sffcAgD8tfkzyu2s0t4kwy2Rvie3nzD7VKIvDvDo75CcIVR_73-ZCidGeIZt4gMtFi9bJrqPQwTlo/s400/S2339+sleeve+tab.jpg" /></a>If you want to make this shirt slightly looser fitting, you can omit the vertical darts (as in View A) but I was keen to make an effort to get a pretty close fitting shirt. I can never find a RTW one that fits so I wanted to spend time getting a basic pattern with a good fit that I could adapt in different ways – when I can summon up the energy to tackle another shirt! This pattern has different pieces for A, B, C or D cups and gives a lot of advice on how to make fitting changes, so I would definitely recommend this as a starting point for shirt-making. Also I should mention that the instructions include a neat ‘rolling up’ technique for attaching the yoke and yoke facing to the main body of the shirt without having to do any hand-stitching, which looks much more professional.<br /><br />Regular readers will know that, alongside this shirt, I have been making a pair of jeans as part of my Pattern Review ‘Blue Print to Blue Jeans’ course (although my jeans are purple, not blue!) They are almost finished and, so far, I’m feeling pretty pleased with them. But more about that soon ……<br /></p>Eugeniahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07584571701550775408noreply@blogger.com32